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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Pennine Alps

Punta Giordani 4046m

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  • Vincent Pyramid and Punta Giordani (far right!)
    Vincent Pyramid and Punta Giordani (far right!)
    Photo: Thomas Nippgen, Archiv Thomas Nippgen

Selected alternatives for you
    Good high-altitude route for acclimatization
    moderate
    Distance 4.2 km
    5:30 h
    710 m
    710 m
    4,046 m
    3,380 m

    The lowest 4000m summit in the Monte Rosa group. Basically, this summit is a small rock spur, but actually only a ridge branch of the Vincent Pyramid. Nevertheless, Punta Giordani counts as an independent four-thousander.

    Punta Giordani, with its summit stature, was named after its first climber Pietro Giordani.

    Difficulty
    PDII40° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    4,046 m
    Lowest point
    3,380 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    trad gear
    Protection
    trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    3

    Track types

    Path 0.22%Via ferrata 1.37%Traces of trail 61.04%Unknown 37.35%
    Path
    10 m
    Via ferrata
    58 m
    Traces of trail
    2.6 km
    Unknown
    1.6 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Glacier crossing with significant crevasse danger – requires roping up without fail.

    Tips and suggestions

    The route was climbed in 2016!

    Roadbook

    From Stafal take the cable car to Punta Indren. From the cable car, follow a heavily used track crossing the glacier at the same altitude. Now follow the rocky path to Rifugio Gnifetti via a marked trail to Rifugio Mantova. From Rifugio Mantova, follow the trail tracks northeast up to the glacier edge. Then ascend the glacier along the distinct track towards the clearly visible Rifugio Gnifetti. Just below Rifugio Gnifetti, you reach the rock ridge and climb via a secured steep section up to the hut.

    From Rifugio Gnifetti, cross the glacier ascending slightly towards the SW ridge of the Vincent Pyramid. First over scree, then light block terrain, up to about 3800m at a wooden pole. From here, cross gently ascending and descending on a kind of scree band to the northeast, reaching a weakly pronounced ledge above the Indren Glacier. Find the best route and first climb a tricky and brittle rock ledge into a snow gully, descend this slightly, then traverse horizontally, crossing a second snow gully into a hollow of the glacier. From here, ascend the glacier, which becomes steeper again, without further difficulties up to the summit.

    Descent is entirely on the south flank, down the Indren Glacier, to the ascent path track towards the huts.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Vincent-Pyramide
    Vincentpyramide
    Rifugio Città di Mantova
    Rifugio Gnifetti

    Public transport

    From Milan by train to Point San Martin station. From the station by bus to the town center. From there by another bus line or taxi to Stafal.

    Directions

    Either via the Great St Bernard to Aosta, then the E25 (toll road) towards Milan until the exit Point San Martin. Exit here and then follow the signs into Val Gressoney. Stafal is the last village at the end of Val Gressoney.

    Parking

    Large free parking lot in Stafal.

    Coordinates

    DD
    45.899731, 7.850182
    DMS
    45°53'59.0"N 7°51'00.7"E
    UTM
    32T 410806 5083549
    w3w 
    ///contempt.forehand.succulent
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Region guide Walliser Alps by Bergverlag Rother

    Club guide SAC Walliser Alps volume 4

    High Alpine tours Western Alps volume 1 - Rother Bergverlag

    Equipment

    Normal high-altitude equipment sufficient (mountain backpack, crampon-compatible mountaineering boots, mountain clothing, rainwear, gloves, headlamp, water bottle, sun protection, bivy sack, first aid kit, harness, rockfall helmet, 1 safety carabiner Ball-Lock, 2 HMS carabiners, 2-3 snap carabiners, 3 quickdraws, crampons with front points, 2 ice screws, ice axe, one long and one short prusik loop, 2 sling loops).

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    PDII40° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    4.2 km
    Duration
    5:30 h
    Ascent
    710 m
    Descent
    710 m
    Highest point
    4,046 m
    Lowest point
    3,380 m
    Round trip Summit route Glacier route

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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