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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Zermatt - Matterhorn

Pollux

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Alpenverein Hohe Munde Verified partner 
  • Left: Pollux, Right: Castor
    Left: Pollux, Right: Castor
    Photo: Rene Dorer, Alpenverein Hohe Munde

Selected alternatives for you
    From the Klein Matterhorn cable car station to Pollux.
    moderate
    Distance 5.2 km
    3:18 h
    441 m
    167 m
    4,086 m
    3,671 m
    From the Klein Matterhorn cable car station 3,883m (Bergbahnen Zermatt) to Pollux 4,092m.

    Author’s recommendation

    I recommend an overnight stay at the "Rifugio Guide della Val d’Ayas." Nice mountain hut with good service.
    Difficulty
    II+35° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    4,086 m
    Lowest point
    3,671 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts, pitons, trad gear
    Protection
    with bolts, sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Complete equipment for glacier travel and rock climbing on the II. to III. ridge. Normally no intermediate anchors needed. Abseiling equipment is helpful.

    Tips and suggestions

    Timetables-Prices-Tickets-Cable Carswww.zermatt.ch/Bahnen-Pisten/

    Rifugio Guide della Val d’Ayas

    Roadbook

    From the Klein Matterhorn cable car station (Bergbahnen Zermatt) over a glacier heading east. Significant crevasse danger. Entry to Pollux is at the southwest of the southward-running rock ridge. Rock climbing – partly brittle – on the II. ridge. One section at difficulty grade IV is equipped with steel chains and therefore easier to overcome. At the end of the rock climbing, there is a abseiling point. The summit is then reached via a firn and ice ridge (100 meters elevation). (The ascent route is the same as the descent route of Pollux. Once on the glacier, you can return to the cable car station or head south over the crevasse-rich glacier to the Rifugio Guide della Val d’Ayas. It is also possible to reach the Rifugio Quintino Sella via Castor). The data of the route relates only to the ascent without descent and other routes.
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    Pollux
    Schlüsselstelle im Aufstieg zum Pollux mit Ketten entschärft

    Public transport

    By car to Täsch (parking garage), by train to Zermatt, by "Zermatt Bergbahn" to "Klein Matterhorn".

    Directions

    Valais, Zermatt.

    Parking

    Täsch parking garage

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'622'674E 1'086'996N
    DD
    45.934176, 7.730968
    DMS
    45°56'03.0"N 7°43'51.5"E
    UTM
    32T 401619 5087517
    w3w 
    ///less.donation.adjudicate
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Equipment

    High-altitude tour equipment for glacier and climbing gear with abseiling equipment. Climbing mostly I. to II. ridge and III. to VI. ridge (short sections secured with steel chains).

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    II+35° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    5.2 km
    Duration
    3:18 h
    Ascent
    441 m
    Descent
    167 m
    Highest point
    4,086 m
    Lowest point
    3,671 m
    Round trip Linear route Ridge

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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