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Alpine Tour
· Uganda
Over the Stanley Glacier to the Margherita Peak
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The ascent to the summit passes by numerous bizarre ice formationsPhoto: Oliver Lair, Outdooractive Premium
A summit ascent in the Rwenzori Mountains of Central Africa is probably one of the greatest adventures on the "Dark Continent." The impressions and scenarios are eerie due to the strongly changing weather conditions, with almost daily precipitation falling as snow up to nearly 4,200 m and the almost permanent cloud cover, making the ascent a "mountain lottery." Steep and ice-axe hard glacier slopes with bizarre ice formations under the blazing equatorial sun create impressions of an alien planet. The magnificent panorama (with luck) from the summit of the highest mountain of DR Congo and Uganda finally compensates for the challenging ascent. Welcome to the roof of the Rwenzori Mountains, a glaciated mountain massif that for a long time was considered the illusion of a "confused" explorer and adventurer - its discoverer Sir Henry Morton Stanley (Bula Matari).
The first stage leads from the Elena Hut over rocky, partially rocky but still quite passable terrain (caution, stones and rocks can be covered with ice and slippery due to night frost!). After about 250 m of ascent, the first glacier (Möbius Glacier) at about 4,800 m is reached. Here it is necessary to put on crampons and rope up; however, the following glacier crossing to the East Stanley Glacier can be done quite easily on the relatively flat glacier. Afterwards, it becomes more demanding and the further ascent leads after a short terrain crest over steep rocky terrain under rope protection with moderate climbing (II-III UIAA, partly fixed rope) or abseil about 100 m down into a small hollow. Then it continues pathless over stone- and rock-strewn moraine terrain up to the rock steps below the Stanley Glacier. Here follows again a rather demanding ascent with partly moderate climbing (II-III UIAA) up to the glacier tongue and the entry to the Stanley Glacier. The ascent on the
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Author
Oliver Lair
Als leidenschaftlicher Naturliebhaber, Höhenbergsteiger und Abenteuerfotograf erkunde ich am liebsten neue Regionen in fernen Ländern und tauche dabei in fremde Kulturen und Lebensweisen ein.
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