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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Zillertal Alps

Olperer via southeast ridge

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DAV Sektion Prien Verified partner 
  • Review of Schlegeisspeicher
    Review of Schlegeisspeicher
    Photo: Jörg Huber, DAV Sektion Prien

Selected alternatives for you
    A true gem in the Zillertal Alps
    difficult
    Distance 15.9 km
    13:00 h
    1,763 m
    1,763 m
    3,476 m
    1,784 m

    Day 1: From Schlegeisspeicher to Olperer via the southeast ridge. Descent to the Olperer hut
    Day 2: From the Olperer hut via the Neumarkter Runde back to Schlegeisspeicher

    This year the weather really fit. Hut booked and well prepared, we started on Saturday, 04.08.2018. At 5 a.m. we started from Raubling. At 6:30 we were at the toll station and prepared everything and had breakfast. At 6:45 the toll station opened and we could pass. At 7 a.m. we set off at Schlegeisspeicher. At the Olperer hut we left our overnight gear and continued with “lighter” luggage. Many points on the route invite you to linger with a wonderful view. At the glacier we put on our crampons. However, there was still so much firn snow that it would have been fine without crampons as well. Large baskets for trekking poles are important. The belay point appears very close but the glacier must not be underestimated; it takes quite a while. From the belay point a short via ferrata leads up to the ridge. From there, over 4 bolts to the summit. Different safety variants were chosen by various groups. Most had chosen anchor point protections. We went on a moving rope. Not many groups were on the way. We could always quickly coordinate whether to wait or pass by. There is little space up there. It is partly very exposed. We needed 50 minutes to ascend from the end of the glacier to the summit and 40 minutes for the same route back. When secured at anchor points, I estimate about 1.5 hours each way.

    We were on the move for a total of 10.5 hours. Enjoyed everything without stress. A dreamlike route with views on the great Möseler, Hochfeiler and more.

    At the Olperer hut we were warmly welcomed. The food is excellent. The overnight stay was unusually quiet. Warm water in the washroom. Very good and ample breakfast. We were delighted.

    On Sunday we walked the Neumarkter Runde. After we had done this section in 30-50cm of fresh snow in September a year ago on our tour “Berliner Höhenweg”, we were curious how it looks without snow. And we were thrilled. At the junction Alpeiner Scharte/Pfitscher Joch/Schlegeisspeicher we could enjoy another wonderful view of the Olperer. But also the further descent towards Schlegeisspeicher downhill is made for our eyes.

    Author’s recommendation

    If the weather is forecast well, do the route in reverse direction. Then the summit day is not so exhausting.

    Also possible as a crossing.

    Difficulty
    II<30° difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Olperer, 3,476 m
    Lowest point
    Schlegeisspeicher, 1,784 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Rope length
    1 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    6
    First ascent
    1867 Paul Grohmann, Georg Samer and Jakob Huber

    Track types

    Asphalt 0.31%Dirt road 1.55%Forested/wild trail 2.64%Path 77.51%Road 0.81%Traces of trail 17.16%Unknown 0%
    Asphalt
    50 m
    Dirt road
    247 m
    Forested/wild trail
    420 m
    Path
    12.3 km
    Road
    129 m
    Traces of trail
    2.7 km
    Unknown
    0 m
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Alm Zamsgatterl

    Safety information

    Coordinate the safety concept in the group in advance.
    Via ferrata safety, anchor point protection, moving rope, etc.
    We were two and went on the via ferrata on a moving rope with 6 carabiners, on the ridge with carabiners in the bolts, and otherwise wrapped the rope around the rocks. With the carabiners, there are no blockages with other groups. We coordinated with all groups to avoid the risk of being pulled along. But there were only 3 groups with us on the ridge.

    Tips and suggestions

    There is more information on the internet

    Roadbook

    Starting at the Schlegeisspeicher with about 600 meters of elevation gain, 1.5 hours to the Olperer hut, not easy to miss. From the Olperer hut, there are clearly visible paths and signposts. Just below the Riepenkopf there is another signpost. After that begins block terrain and paths are rarely visible. Many cairns indicate the way. However, also towards the North ridge. We quickly went in the wrong direction there. Fortunately, we noticed this in time and could walk over the blocks to other mountaineers and then ascend again along cairns on the ridge up to the glacier. There the path is easy to find again. The climbing path points the way to the ridge. On the ridge the direction is fixed. On the descent just after the glacier there is only one way down. This soon changes and you are constantly searching again where the cairns lead. The rough direction is easy to find and everyone can take their own way.

    On the 2nd day on the Neumarkter Runde, the path is very very easy to find. This path was beautifully constructed and well signposted.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Bank "Olpererhüttenblick"
    Olperer hut
    Zamsgatterl 1800 m
    Top Sehenswürdigkeiten 💚 Schlegeis Speicher Panoramastraße
    Zamsgatterl
    Alm Zamsgatterl

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    By train to Mayerhofen. From Mayerhofen to Schlegeisspeicher by bus.

    Directions

    Inntaldreieck, exit Achensee/Zillertal, B169 to Ginzling, follow the road to Schlegeisspeicher.

    Toll road from Breitlahner: 12.50 Euro per car, allegedly it costs only 10 Euro if you stay overnight. Status: 2018

    Parking

    Very large parking lot at the end of the road from the Schlegeis reservoir

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.031978, 11.697323
    DMS
    47°01'55.1"N 11°41'50.4"E
    UTM
    32T 704938 5212248
    w3w 
    ///polarity.dodges.tiffs
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Berliner Höhenweg and more

    Author’s map recommendations

    Alpine club map 35/1 Zillertal Alps West 1:25000

    Book recommendations for this region:

    Show more

    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    High alpine tour equipment, 60m single rope, 6 carabiners, abseiling device, deep snow baskets

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    II<30° difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    15.9 km
    Duration
    13:00 h
    Ascent
    1,763 m
    Descent
    1,763 m
    Highest point
    3,476 m
    Lowest point
    1,784 m
    Public-transport-friendly Out and back Summit route Ridge Round trip

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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