Day 1: From Schlegeisspeicher to Olperer via the southeast ridge. Descent to the Olperer hut
Day 2: From the Olperer hut via the Neumarkter Runde back to Schlegeisspeicher
This year the weather really fit. Hut booked and well prepared, we started on Saturday, 04.08.2018. At 5 a.m. we started from Raubling. At 6:30 we were at the toll station and prepared everything and had breakfast. At 6:45 the toll station opened and we could pass. At 7 a.m. we set off at Schlegeisspeicher. At the Olperer hut we left our overnight gear and continued with “lighter” luggage. Many points on the route invite you to linger with a wonderful view. At the glacier we put on our crampons. However, there was still so much firn snow that it would have been fine without crampons as well. Large baskets for trekking poles are important. The belay point appears very close but the glacier must not be underestimated; it takes quite a while. From the belay point a short via ferrata leads up to the ridge. From there, over 4 bolts to the summit. Different safety variants were chosen by various groups. Most had chosen anchor point protections. We went on a moving rope. Not many groups were on the way. We could always quickly coordinate whether to wait or pass by. There is little space up there. It is partly very exposed. We needed 50 minutes to ascend from the end of the glacier to the summit and 40 minutes for the same route back. When secured at anchor points, I estimate about 1.5 hours each way.
We were on the move for a total of 10.5 hours. Enjoyed everything without stress. A dreamlike route with views on the great Möseler, Hochfeiler and more.
At the Olperer hut we were warmly welcomed. The food is excellent. The overnight stay was unusually quiet. Warm water in the washroom. Very good and ample breakfast. We were delighted.
On Sunday we walked the Neumarkter Runde. After we had done this section in 30-50cm of fresh snow in September a year ago on our tour “Berliner Höhenweg”, we were curious how it looks without snow. And we were thrilled. At the junction Alpeiner Scharte/Pfitscher Joch/Schlegeisspeicher we could enjoy another wonderful view of the Olperer. But also the further descent towards Schlegeisspeicher downhill is made for our eyes.
Author’s recommendation
If the weather is forecast well, do the route in reverse direction. Then the summit day is not so exhausting.
Also possible as a crossing.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Alm ZamsgatterlSafety information
Coordinate the safety concept in the group in advance.Via ferrata safety, anchor point protection, moving rope, etc.
We were two and went on the via ferrata on a moving rope with 6 carabiners, on the ridge with carabiners in the bolts, and otherwise wrapped the rope around the rocks. With the carabiners, there are no blockages with other groups. We coordinated with all groups to avoid the risk of being pulled along. But there were only 3 groups with us on the ridge.
Tips and suggestions
There is more information on the internetRoadbook
Starting at the Schlegeisspeicher with about 600 meters of elevation gain, 1.5 hours to the Olperer hut, not easy to miss. From the Olperer hut, there are clearly visible paths and signposts. Just below the Riepenkopf there is another signpost. After that begins block terrain and paths are rarely visible. Many cairns indicate the way. However, also towards the North ridge. We quickly went in the wrong direction there. Fortunately, we noticed this in time and could walk over the blocks to other mountaineers and then ascend again along cairns on the ridge up to the glacier. There the path is easy to find again. The climbing path points the way to the ridge. On the ridge the direction is fixed. On the descent just after the glacier there is only one way down. This soon changes and you are constantly searching again where the cairns lead. The rough direction is easy to find and everyone can take their own way.
On the 2nd day on the Neumarkter Runde, the path is very very easy to find. This path was beautifully constructed and well signposted.
Olperer hut
Zamsgatterl 1800 m
Top Sehenswürdigkeiten 💚 Schlegeis Speicher Panoramastraße
Zamsgatterl
Alm Zamsgatterl
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
By train to Mayerhofen. From Mayerhofen to Schlegeisspeicher by bus.Directions
Inntaldreieck, exit Achensee/Zillertal, B169 to Ginzling, follow the road to Schlegeisspeicher.
Toll road from Breitlahner: 12.50 Euro per car, allegedly it costs only 10 Euro if you stay overnight. Status: 2018
Parking
Very large parking lot at the end of the road from the Schlegeis reservoirCoordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
High alpine tour equipment, 60m single rope, 6 carabiners, abseiling device, deep snow basketsLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions