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ATTENTION: NEW ROUTE! See description and screenshot
Varied crossing that includes everything: hiking trails, glacier crossing, great climbing, but unfortunately also crossing the ski area and congestion on the normal route. But the rock on the north ridge makes up for it all! Great route!
Update 2022: The terrain on site is opening up a lot and the path has changed in recent years. The described ascent route on the western edge of the Riepenkees is unfortunately no longer possible because the terrain is very steep. You have to climb up the piste to the Riepensattel and from there follow the piste to the Wildlahnerscharte. In the attached screenshot, the path is marked in green. With the help of satellite imagery, you can clearly see the trail along the piste. Via ALPENVEREIN.
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The Olperer in the Tux range is well known for its distinctive shape. For some, even the normal route over the Schneegupf ridge/Riepen ridge is a challenge - those wanting something more varied and exciting choose the crossing: up the north ridge, down the Riepen ridge. This leads first along nicely laid hiking trails to the glacier, then across it, unfortunately directly into the ski area, where you can walk along the piste to the ridge.
The fairly steep snowfield leading fully to the ridge is usually completely softened by large steps – be more careful with the crevasses at the foot of the slope. The ridge itself offers wonderful climbing – the "duck feet" ease most slabs and the steep key section is also significantly easier because of them. Friends and nuts find placements frequently.
Unfortunately, the climbing ends too quickly, but you are rewarded with a breathtaking panorama from the summit. The descent – at least for us – is shared with many other rope teams on the normal route where there are frequent bottlenecks. Those confident enough can descend without a rope and quickly slip past most of the "chained" people. The cable-protected section at the very end is steep and requires some muscle power; you could also rappel.
Afterwards, you cross the large firn field toward a miserable scree heap, through which you can navigate quite well thanks to cairns. We also added the Riepenkopf, which has a cozy summit plateau. A peak you don't have to climb ;-) Then follow well-marked paths back to the Olperer hut – here it’s worth having a well-filled wallet, the prices are steep.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Tips and suggestions
www.ulligunde.comRoadbook
The route described here is no longer correct. See "Description" or screenshot of the new route.
From the Olperer hut, follow the hiking trail towards "Olperer." At about 2700 m, turn right and either take the piste or just above in the direction of the ski area (crevasses!). Now on the piste towards the ridge, put on rock climbing gear just below and continue over a steep snowfield fully into the rock. Do not enter the rock ridge right at the bottom – rather somewhat higher up (see track). The tracks likely indicate the way. Now climb wonderfully on the broad ridge – the distinctive rock peak is climbed directly (at the very top, a "duck foot" shows the way).
To climb on a running rope and always have protection between you, a few friends and possibly nuts are worthwhile. Otherwise, some quickdraws if you don't want to constantly swap gear.
From the summit, go directly back down to the Olperer hut via the normal route. The path is unmistakable thanks to the narrow ridge. After the cables, return to the snow and cross the firn field to the lowest end, where cairns indicate the best path through the scree. Afterwards, either continue to the Riepenkopf (summit cross) or return directly to the Olperer hut.
Our times: Olperer hut - start: 2h, ridge climbing 1.5h, total with a very long break at the summit, congestion on the ridge and again a long break at the Riepenkopf: 7h
Directions
Drive through the Zillertal to the Schlegeis reservoir. Toll!Parking
Free parking at the southwest ridge of the Schlegeis lake. Huge OLPERER HUT sign.Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Use some friends and a few nuts if you want to climb on a running rope without constantly changing gear. You can also rappel on the steel cables during the descent.Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions