Monte Leone

Monte Leone is typically climbed from the Simplon pass in one day, which demands considerable fitness but has the advantage that you can comfortably stay overnight in one of the hotels there. An overnight stay in the Monte Leone hut makes little sense because from there you would have to descend 300 meters in altitude to reach the normal route. The normal route leads over the low-crevasse Homattu Glacier to the Breithorn pass and from there over the flat Alpjergletscher to the Monte Leone south ridge. The ridge does not pose major climbing challenges. To avoid the wildest ridge spikes, you need to accept some exposed traverses on the flank.