Johannisberg NE face

For more ambitious high alpine climbers who want to make the route on the Johannisberg a bit more interesting, the NE face is very suitable as a short ice route. Maximum approximately 50° steep, it climbs over several pitches to the summit. This route is also good for beginners in ice walls. 

As conditions can change significantly due to glacier retreat, the route may need to be changed depending on snow conditions (e.g. early diversion to the NW ridge). Slightly right of center is usually the better, not too steep path. 

As soon as the face steepens, or we reach the bergschrund, we switch to a classic rope team. A 2/3-person rope team is recommended, or otherwise in caterpillar technique with ascent on fixed rope secured by prusiks. The last person can be secured in the classic way. 
Several pitches lead straight up. If conditions no longer allow a direct ascent, you can always divert to the NW ridge. There you climb over brittle rock but it is easily manageable up to maximum UIAA I+ to the summit.

From the summit, there is a best panorama around the Glockner group.

On the descent, we initially follow the east ridge steeper, then flatter down until we switch back to the glacier to the south. The exact path depends again on conditions.
On the glacier, we cross relatively flat back to the ascent track and return to the hut. Caution, the upper Pasterzenboden is very crevasse-rich (even fell into one during descent).