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Talleit Spitze from the Breslauer HutPhoto: Thomas Nippgen, Archiv Thomas Nippgen
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Breslauer HütteSafety information
Whether the route is still passable is unknown to me. But due to glacier melting and climate warming, the route is likely no longer easily passable.
During an ascent of the Wildspitze in 2019, the north ridge used for descent appeared free of snow and very rocky. It can therefore be assumed that the ice wall is either very rocky and perhaps partially melted in summer or no longer exists.
Tips and suggestions
Route was climbed in May 2014!
Roadbook
From the Breslauer Hut through the Mitterkar following the traces (in summer a path) into the Mitterkarjoch. From there onto the Taschach Glacier and northwest to the start of the north ridge. Around this to the entrance of the wall. Straight up through the wall to a rock island, over it and now high up in the left part of the wall until shortly before the beginning of the ice nose. This can be climbed directly (up to 80° steep).
We went left past it and through a small gully onto a snow shoulder (about 55° steep). From there, a few minutes in easy terrain to the summit.
Descent was directly down the north ridge to the Taschach Glacier and then back to the Mitterkarjoch. Descent as ascent back to the hut.
Hinterer Brochkogel
Mitterkarjoch
Public transport
By train from Innsbruck to Landeck to the Ötztal station. Then transfer to the buses of the Tyrolean Transport Association (https://www.vvt.at/page.cfm?vpath=index).
First take bus line 320 to Zwieselstein. There transfer to bus line 330 to Vent.
Directions
By train from Innsbruck to Landeck to the Ötztal station. Then transfer to the buses of the Tyrolean Transport Association (https://www.vvt.at/page.cfm?vpath=index).
First take bus line 320 to Zwieselstein. There transfer to bus line 330 to Vent.
Parking
Designated parking lot at the entrance to the town. Additional parking options at the valley station of the chairlift.
All parking options are subject to a fee.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Diverse forums on the internet
Author’s map recommendations
Alpenverein map 1/25000 - sheet 30/6 "Ötztal Alps-Wildspitze"
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Complete high alpine tour equipment.
Instead of the ice axe, two ice tools, at least 8 ice screws (if bare ice is present) and a corresponding number of quickdraws.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions