Großglockner via Glocknerwand

From the Stüdlhütte, you initially climb steeply northwards towards the Teischnitzkees. The wide glacier surface is then crossed significantly flatter towards the northwest. At an altitude of about 3340 m, you reach the next glacier, the Fruschnitzkees. There you turn north and climb over a firn slope to the ridge between Teufelskamp (left) and Hofmannspitze (right).

Now you follow the northwest ridge to the Hofmannspitze (3715 m), the first ridge tower of the Glocknerwand. Subsequently, all six further ridge towers, which are separated by notches, are crossed one after another. The second tower, the Pöschlturm, is considered the highest peak at 3722 m. The fourth to seventh ridge towers form the Glocknerwand crown. Finally, you climb via the southeast ridge to the Lower Glocknerscharte (3596 m), where a rappel point of just under ten meters facilitates the descent.

After the Glocknerscharte, the rock tooth of the Teufelshorn is bypassed on the south side. Further climbing takes you over the Glocknerhorn (3680 m) to the Grögerschneide (3660 m). Lastly, the upper northwest ridge leads up to Austria's highest summit.

For the descent, you first descend over rock slabs to the airy Upper Glocknerscharte (steel cable), then cross the exposed Kleinglockner (protection rods) again. Afterwards, a steep gully leads left down to the broad ridge of the Glocknerleitl, over which it goes southeast down to the Erzherzog Johann Hütte. From the hut, you follow the partially steel-cable-secured rock ridge to the so-called Kampl, where steel cables again lead right (west) over rocky terrain down to the Ködnitzkees. The glacier is crossed in the same direction (beware of transverse crevasses). Then you turn left (south) and descend straight down the gentle glacier basin. Finally, the rock spur is bypassed on the left before crossing right in a traverse to the Stüdlhütte.