Großglockner normal route via Stüdlhütte

On 27.08.2016 we set out to climb the Großglockner. From Bernau via Kössen, Kitzbühel, Mittersill, Huben, Kals we drove to the parking lot at the Lucknerhaus (1920m). After a comfortable 2h15min hike we reached the Stüdlhütte (2800m). The path is well signposted and easy to follow. For better acclimatization, we headed towards the Stüdl ridge. Here the alpine situation changes completely. Surefootedness is now required. The path is easy to find. After a short break at 3000m, we went back. We were treated to a beautiful view of the Stüdlhütte and the Fanotkogel, the mountain behind it.
At the hut there was a four-course meal with distinction. The Stüdlhütte is not only a good base for the highly sought-after summit, the dinner is worth the climb and an overnight stay. After a short night, we were woken at 4:30 am and had breakfast at 5 am. At 5:40 am we set off with headlamps towards Adlersruhe. On the glacier, we were roped up. Then follows a via ferrata (grade C), mostly A/B. A beautiful sunrise not only warmed us but also strongly motivated us. The anticipation of the summit grew immensely. After 2h45min we reached the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. After a short break we continued over the Glocknerleitl (ice up to 40°) to the Kleinglockner ridge. At 3700m, the crampons are removed. It goes slowly over pole protection to the Kleinglockner. Due to the extreme oncoming traffic, there are repeated bottlenecks. This should be taken into account when planning the time. The waiting times when passing oncoming climbers are topped by completely unreasonable climbers who exactly at this moment have to overtake and thus block both groups additionally. However, this did not diminish our friends’ joy of reaching the summit. From the Kleinglockner you have not only magnificent views deep into the valley down to the Lucknerhaus and into the Pallavicini couloir, but also a wonderful view of the Großglockner. This increases the anticipation of the summit experience. Goosebumps looking at the golden summit cross. After 5 hours the goal of 3798m was reached. The view is exceptional in all directions. For me, of course, the view of the Großvenediger was special, since just 2 weeks ago I had looked longingly from the Großvenediger to the Großglockner. At 11:15 am, with suddenly rising fog, we went back the same way. The oncoming traffic was the same as on the ascent. We descended correspondingly slowly. After a short break at the Stüdlhütte, we were at the car by 5 pm. Even happier than at the summit because finally the heavy mountaineering boots were exchanged for comfortable shoes.