Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
The route requires stable, good weather since both visibility (especially over the Pasterze and at the Kleinglocknerkees, as well as on the descent) and exposure (ridge climbing!) are not enjoyable or quickly become critical in bad weather.Tips and suggestions
This route was also entered as part of the 150 years Mammut Peak Projects: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/hochtour/nationalparkregion-hohe-tauern/lammergrat/2811094/#downloadsRoadbook
From the Franz-Josefs-Höhe, it first goes downhill - and with ongoing climate warming, the downhill section gets longer until we reach the Pasterze. Impressive on the descent are the signs indicating the respective glacier level in 10-year steps. Over the Pasterze, follow the large visual marking poles to the start of the hiking trail towards Hoffmannskees/breakfast spot. The path can change from year to year due to the very loose lateral moraines. Usually, the loose section is well marked by poles. On the Hoffmannsweg, it goes up to about 2600 m elevation. There, the valley of the Kleinglocknerkees (last possibility to refill water bottles) is crossed northwestwards to reach the start of the Lammergrat. The first ascent can still be easily bypassed, after which we initially stay more southeast (left in ascent direction) of the ridge and gain height in light (UIAA I), grassy terrain. The steepness automatically forces one onto the ridge, and from there on, it continues more or less along the ridge. Short bypasses left and right of the ridge are possible. The most difficult sections are a longer slab and a short, exposed ridge section (both UIAA II+). At about 3240 m elevation, there are two options. Either you traverse slightly right (northwest) under a snow and ice field, staying on the rock and climb the last ridge ascent (UIAA III+) to the Kleinglocknerkees. Or the last rock spur is bypassed on the left over the steep flank of the Kleinglocknerkees (about 40 degrees, approx. 150 m height).
Upon reaching the flatter basin of the Kleinglocknerkees, you can either head towards Adlersruhe or over the Glocknerleitl (often icy, 40 degrees) to the Kleinglockner (iron rods for protection), sections II. From the Kleinglockner, descend briefly to the Glocknerscharte (exposed) and then ascend to the Großglockner (sections II+).
The descent follows the ascent route to the Glocknerleitl (beware of "oncoming traffic") and then along the usually existing path to Adlersruhe. From Adlersruhe either via the Hoffmannskees to the breakfast spot and from there back to the Pasterze, where the final uphill section often feels strenuous. Alternatively, you can descend via the Salmhütte; although the final uphill here is somewhat longer, the path is more scenic and especially recommended when the Hoffmannskees is already bare. The latter is critical on descent and has caused some serious accidents.
Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
There are Intercity stops both in Zell am See (north) and Spital an der Drau (south) (www.oebb.at). From there by bus to the towns Bruck an der Großglocknerstraße and Heiligenblut. During the opening times of the Großglockner High Alpine Road, the National Park hiking bus (www.nationalpark-hohetauern.at/Wanderbus) or the Glocknerbus (www.grossglockner.at/gg/de/motoren-reifen/glocknerbus) are the best options.
Directions
From the north on the toll Großglockner High Alpine Road via Bruck an der Glocknerstraße to the Ferleiten toll station, past the Fuschertörl, past the Fuscher Lacke and finally through a tunnel to the Carinthian side of the High Alpine Road. About 400 m downhill, shortly after Wernischalm the road branches off to Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe. From the south, the toll Großglockner High Alpine Road leads from Heiligenblut to the junction Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe. Now about 7.5 km to the starting point, the parking garage at Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe (end of the road).Parking
Right at Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe there is a huge free parking garage.Coordinates
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
High-altitude tour equipment including crampons, ice axe, and an ice tool (for the direct exit). Slings, as well as a small set of friends (2 pieces), nuts (4 pieces), and pitons (2 pieces), should be included. 4 quickdraws and 4 ice screws are sufficient.Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions