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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Glockner Group

Großglockner, Lammergrat

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  • Sunrise at Großglockner
    Sunrise at Großglockner
    Photo: Rafael Reder, alpenvereinaktiv.com

Selected alternatives for you
    A little-known ascent to Austria's highest mountain: alpine appealing, impressively scenic, wonderfully secluded.
    moderate
    Distance 13.8 km
    12:15 h
    2,018 m
    2,022 m
    3,798 m
    2,072 m
    The Lammergrat is the unknown brother west of the Meletzkigrat. Trail traces are rarely found here, but the rock is solid over large parts and the direct line towards Kleinglockner is unrivaled. Overnighting at the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte offers a great opportunity for a two-day tour. The overall demands are very similar to the Meletzkigrat but without bolts along the ridge.

    Author’s recommendation

    Ideally, an early start succeeds, allowing a long rest at Adlersruhe around midday. In the afternoon, when it gets quieter, the ascent to the summit takes place, and the next morning is only the descent.
    Difficulty
    PD+II+40° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Großglockner, 3,798 m
    Lowest point
    2,072 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    trad gear
    Protection
    trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    4

    Track types

    Asphalt 0.94%Path 44.18%No marked trail 12.35%Traces of trail 38.80%Unknown 3.70%
    Asphalt
    130 m
    Path
    6.1 km
    No marked trail
    1.7 km
    Traces of trail
    5.3 km
    Unknown
    510 m
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    The route requires stable, good weather since both visibility (especially over the Pasterze and at the Kleinglocknerkees, as well as on the descent) and exposure (ridge climbing!) are not enjoyable or quickly become critical in bad weather.

    Tips and suggestions

    This route was also entered as part of the 150 years Mammut Peak Projects: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/hochtour/nationalparkregion-hohe-tauern/lammergrat/2811094/#downloads

    Roadbook

    From the Franz-Josefs-Höhe, it first goes downhill - and with ongoing climate warming, the downhill section gets longer until we reach the Pasterze. Impressive on the descent are the signs indicating the respective glacier level in 10-year steps. Over the Pasterze, follow the large visual marking poles to the start of the hiking trail towards Hoffmannskees/breakfast spot. The path can change from year to year due to the very loose lateral moraines. Usually, the loose section is well marked by poles. On the Hoffmannsweg, it goes up to about 2600 m elevation. There, the valley of the Kleinglocknerkees (last possibility to refill water bottles) is crossed northwestwards to reach the start of the Lammergrat. The first ascent can still be easily bypassed, after which we initially stay more southeast (left in ascent direction) of the ridge and gain height in light (UIAA I), grassy terrain. The steepness automatically forces one onto the ridge, and from there on, it continues more or less along the ridge. Short bypasses left and right of the ridge are possible. The most difficult sections are a longer slab and a short, exposed ridge section (both UIAA II+). At about 3240 m elevation, there are two options. Either you traverse slightly right (northwest) under a snow and ice field, staying on the rock and climb the last ridge ascent (UIAA III+) to the Kleinglocknerkees. Or the last rock spur is bypassed on the left over the steep flank of the Kleinglocknerkees (about 40 degrees, approx. 150 m height).

    Upon reaching the flatter basin of the Kleinglocknerkees, you can either head towards Adlersruhe or over the Glocknerleitl (often icy, 40 degrees) to the Kleinglockner (iron rods for protection), sections II. From the Kleinglockner, descend briefly to the Glocknerscharte (exposed) and then ascend to the Großglockner (sections II+).

    The descent follows the ascent route to the Glocknerleitl (beware of "oncoming traffic") and then along the usually existing path to Adlersruhe. From Adlersruhe either via the Hoffmannskees to the breakfast spot and from there back to the Pasterze, where the final uphill section often feels strenuous. Alternatively, you can descend via the Salmhütte; although the final uphill here is somewhat longer, the path is more scenic and especially recommended when the Hoffmannskees is already bare. The latter is critical on descent and has caused some serious accidents.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
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    Photo
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    Franz-Josefs-Höhe
    Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    There are Intercity stops both in Zell am See (north) and Spital an der Drau (south) (www.oebb.at). From there by bus to the towns Bruck an der Großglocknerstraße and Heiligenblut. During the opening times of the Großglockner High Alpine Road, the National Park hiking bus (www.nationalpark-hohetauern.at/Wanderbus) or the Glocknerbus (www.grossglockner.at/gg/de/motoren-reifen/glocknerbus) are the best options.

    Directions

    From the north on the toll Großglockner High Alpine Road via Bruck an der Glocknerstraße to the Ferleiten toll station, past the Fuschertörl, past the Fuscher Lacke and finally through a tunnel to the Carinthian side of the High Alpine Road. About 400 m downhill, shortly after Wernischalm the road branches off to Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe. From the south, the toll Großglockner High Alpine Road leads from Heiligenblut to the junction Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe. Now about 7.5 km to the starting point, the parking garage at Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe (end of the road).

    Parking

    Right at Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe there is a huge free parking garage.

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.075423, 12.751188
    DMS
    47°04'31.5"N 12°45'04.3"E
    UTM
    33T 329276 5215999
    w3w 
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    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Author’s map recommendations

    Alpine Club map No. 40 "Glocknergruppe"

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    High-altitude tour equipment including crampons, ice axe, and an ice tool (for the direct exit). Slings, as well as a small set of friends (2 pieces), nuts (4 pieces), and pitons (2 pieces), should be included. 4 quickdraws and 4 ice screws are sufficient.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

    User Questions


    July 21, 2025
    Günter Schelling  
    Hallo Schiverein Weiz, meine Tour liegt schon ein paar Jahre zurück, habe somit keine aktuellen Infos. Frage doch mal beim lokalen Bergführerbüro oder auf den Hütten an, die geben dir sicherlich eine Auskunft. Alternativ kannst du auch von der Salmhütte aufsteigen und dann über die Lucknerhütte wieder absteigen. Dann betritt dich die Pasterze nicht und es ist eine schöne Runde. Gruß Günter
    August 08, 2025
    Schiverein Weiz  
    Questioner
    Lieber Günter. Danke für die Infos. Die Infos die ich bis jetzt bekommen habe, gehen etwas auseinander. Wir starten am Sonntag und ich werde mal schauen ob es vor Ort dann klären wird. Danke für den Alternativvorschlag über die Salmhütte. Sollten wir über den Grat gehen, folgen aktuelle Bedingungen. Lg Christian

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    Difficulty
    PD+II+40° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    13.8 km
    Duration
    12:15 h
    Ascent
    2,018 m
    Descent
    2,022 m
    Highest point
    3,798 m
    Lowest point
    2,072 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Multi-stage route Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Ridge

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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