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Photo: Aron Esser, DAV Sektion Univ. Sportclub Mü.
Weissmieshütte - Fletschhorn (3985m) - Fletschjoch - Lagginhorn (4010m) - Weissmieshütte
ZS, III+ (III- oblique), 40°
WARNING: The GPX track around the Fletschhorn summit may be inaccurate and has already been revised. Please do not enter the south flank of the Fletschhorn!
Nice crossing of the Fletschhorn (3985m) and the Lagginhorn (4010m). From the Weissmieshütte (alternatively from the Hochsaas cable car station) via the normal route to the Fletschhorn, descent over the glacier to the Fletschjoch and then over the north-northeast ridge to the Lagginhorn, descent over the normal route back to the Weissmieshütte.
ZS, III+ (III- oblique), 40°
Author’s recommendation
- early start (3 a.m. at the Weissmieshütte) since the risk of rock and ice fall on the normal route to the Fletschhorn increases as the day progresses.
- the original normal route to the Fletschhorn is only recommended in early summer with sufficient firn. Alternatively, a route between 3000m and 3400m goes left of it through the rock faces. Be sure to ask the hut warden about the currently better route.
- can be well combined with the Weissmies the day before, possibly crossing the Weissmies from the Almagellerhütte over the south ridge.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Roadbook
The ascent via the normal route to the Fletschhorn first leads over the same moraine as the normal route to the Lagginhorn and then turns left to the glacier. On the glacier, keep as far left as possible to avoid rock and ice fall. The firn slopes up to max. 35°-40°. In the very short rock sections (I) it is not worth taking off the crampons. You reach a saddle at 3450m and cross the glacier. Caution: large crevasses parallel to the direction of travel. At the end, it slopes up again and you go in switchbacks to the firn ridge. A short rock section (I) and a often corniced firn ridge now lead to the summit of the Fletschhorn. Up to here WS (snow and ice).
From here best eastwards over the firn ridge (do not descend into the wall! The GPX track here may be inaccurate) and then southwards over the glacier to the Fletschjoch (about 350m descent).
At the Fletschjoch, the climbing on the north-northeast ridge of the Lagginhorn begins first with a short, steep firn/ice slope. Rope free or on a running rope with mobile protection (medium nuts, medium friends, some slings) mostly follow the direct ridge line in grade II. Route finding is not a problem, crampon scrapers also help. In between there are short firn sections which can be heavily corniced. The three III+ sections (a slab halfway, a corner at three quarters and a wall directly under the summit with tiny cracks for finger jams) can also be bypassed, so that one only has to climb up to III-. The rock is generally solid and well protectable. Difficulty overall ZS.
The descent from the Lagginhorn via the normal route is well marked with cairns and goes over scree and grade II terrain. Caution is advised when wet. Descent is WS.
Jegihorn
Jegiturm
Fletschhorn
Lagginhorn 4010 m. ü. M.
Public transport
all access options to the Weissmieshütte are publicly well reachable by post busDirections
to Saas-GrundParking
parking spaces in Saas-Grund are sufficiently available and cost 5CHF/dayCoordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
complete glacier equipment, those who want to climb at the current difficulty on the running rope should shorten the rope to about 25m, pitons, some slings, a set of nuts and a few friendsLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions