Eiger via Mittellegigrat

Track types

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Rest stops

Mönchsjochhütte

Safety information

High alpine tours and climbs up to difficulty grade 4. Abseiling up to 25 m.

Tips and suggestions

From the summit toward the southwest to the first steep step (II to III), where you can also abseil (bolts). In high alpine terrain to a rock tower where two abseils of 25 meters each are performed. The further descent to the northern Eigerjoch is less difficult. Here begins the jagged, often very narrow connecting ridge to the southern Eigerjoch. The ups and downs on the connecting ridge in firn, ice, and rock repeatedly require the use of an ice axe and crampons for certain passages. The route mostly runs to the right of the ridge. The key section is a short climb of grade IV at the foot of a west-facing gully, which leads up to the highest point (3770 m) of the ridge consisting of several small rises. Here you must confidently make an airy step to the right and then climb the gully. The rest of the route is simple: over firn you descend into the southern Eigerjoch, from where – leaving the Mönch on the right and aiming at the pointed Jungfrau – you descend leftward on the glacier toward the Ewigschneefeld (caution, crevasses!). A last ascent leads to the Mönchsjoch hut (3657 m), and then civilization comes into sight with the snow-marked path to the Jungfraujoch with the Sphinx (4 hours from the summit). Take the Jungfrau railway back to Grindelwald in just under 2 hours.

Character / Difficulty: Incredibly impressive, difficult high alpine tour on one of the world’s most famous mountains. The combination of rock (consistently III, short sections IV) and ice (up to 45 degrees) as well as the altitude just under the 4000-meter mark requires a high level of alpine skill. Depending on weather (fresh snow, icing), conditions can vary greatly. Besides technical skills, good fitness and a certain amount of nerve are required. The time for the crossing largely depends on how quickly (also when starting in the dark) the route is found and how well belay and intermediate protection points are set up. Those unsure and taking more time can easily take significantly more than 11 hours for the crossing (from the Mittellegihütte). The IV climbing section on the approach to the hut is a good benchmark: Those having difficulties there should avoid the Eiger crossing.

Coordinates

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