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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Venediger Group

Eastern Simonyspitze

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  • Ascent on the right over the ridge in the background west of Simonyspitze
    Ascent on the right over the ridge in the background west of Simonyspitze
    Photo: Frank Harting, Thomas Frei, th.frei@web.de

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    From the turbulently flowing Maurerbach over rocky paths and rock to the glaciers of the Simonyspitze.
    moderate
    Distance 8.7 km
    7:00 h
    1,310 m
    1,298 m
    3,442 m
    2,208 m
    The Essener and Rostocker Hut is the starting point for our (in good weather conditions) easy high alpine route. We follow the Maurerbach into the upper Maurertal. The masses of water from the surrounding glaciers roar as they flow, announcing the melting ice water. A signpost directs us from the stream to the left towards the mountain. After a few steps, we are already on the serpentine ascent leading to a lovely viewpoint knoll with two or three small ponds. A brief rest and a glance towards the hut and Simonysee, then the path continues uphill to the Dellacher Keesflecken (2636m, Kees = glacier term used in the Eastern Alps until the 19th century), where we finally leave the still green landscape and enter the rocky fields. A few minutes later the view opens onto the glacier of the western Simonyspitze, crisscrossed with crevasses. However, we follow the rocky ridge up towards the eastern summit and reach a first Keesfleck, above which a rock band stretches northward. On the normal ascent one follows the rocky ridge up, with the snow cover determining how well and whether an entry into the rock sections of this rock band is possible. On this day, however, due to fresh snow below the rock band, we head about 150m north before finding a suitable spot for the climbing start. The climbing is mostly grade two difficulty, so we ascend without a rope. At the end of the rock band, the ice field here is quite steep, so crampons have to be put on. Still without rope and protection, we continue to the next rock band on less steep terrain. The second and last climbing section is easier and brings us up to the glacier dome near the summit ridge. The view and panorama are phenomenal. We have the summit to ourselves while watching one rope team after another march towards Großvenediger.
    Difficulty
    moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Eastern Simonyspitze, 3,442 m
    Lowest point
    Essener and Rostocker Hut, 2,208 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW

    Track types

    Path 53.60%No marked trail 46.39%
    Path
    4.7 km
    No marked trail
    4 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    This is a high alpine route suitable for beginners in high alpine touring in good weather conditions.
    However, I strongly recommend checking current conditions with the hut warden.
    In case of significant thawing, rockfall is to be expected in the middle section of the summit route.

    Tips and suggestions

    Film contribution by Anze Cokl

    Simonyspitzen on Wikipedia

    Description on gipfelrast.at

    Roadbook

    We follow path no. 912 from Winterhaus hut over a small bridge, then head towards Johannishütte until a signpost guides us northwest onto path no. 928. There we ascend to the Delacher Keesflecken. The clear mountain trail becomes a track marked with cairns from the Keesflecken, where there is no longer any ice. Currently (year 2013) we pass a post at 2900m labeled as Dellacher Keesfleck, which is rather a puzzle or probably an error that the sign for the Keesflecke at 2636m has ended up at 2900m. Through the scree field we now go onto the rocky ridge, where we keep to the left if in doubt to avoid steeper ice, then ascend over the glacier with few crevasses towards the eastern Simonyspitze.
    Rest stop
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    Photo
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    Essener und Rostocker Hütte

    Public transport

    By train via Lienz to Matrei in East Tyrol.
    From Matrei in East Tyrol by bus to Ströden.

    Directions

    Via Matrei in East Tyrol to the valley head at Ströden.

    Parking

    Ströden, paid parking lot

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.055163, 12.298070
    DMS
    47°03'18.6"N 12°17'53.1"E
    UTM
    33T 294800 5214837
    w3w 
    ///crumbling.wowed.protesting
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Author’s map recommendations

    AV map no. 36

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    High alpine equipment required

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    8.7 km
    Duration
    7:00 h
    Ascent
    1,310 m
    Descent
    1,298 m
    Highest point
    3,442 m
    Lowest point
    2,208 m
    Out and back Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Ridge

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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