Eastern Seespitze (3416 m) from the Franz-Senn-Hütte

(1) From the Franz-Senn-Hütte we follow path No. 131 along the Alpeinerbach. The approximately 2.3 km long path through the glacier-shaped high valley is not difficult and runs very flat towards the valley end, except for the short terrain step - the "Hell's Throat". At the point where the path splits, we follow the left path ("new") or the "Wild Water Glacier Experience Path to the Alpeiner Ferner". The easy and very well-marked mountain path leads us in switchbacks over the slopes in the valley basin up to the sandy areas below the Alpeiner Ferner (approx. 2520 m).

(2) Here we leave the path to the left, cross the Alpeinerbach on a provisional wooden bridge and now climb pathlessly over the moderately steep, only sparsely and not continuously marked block terrain. We always head towards the distinctive rock pillar of the Inner Summer Wall. Intuition and experience for pathless terrain and a practiced eye for recognizing cairns are required here. Unpleasant and rockfall-prone is the crossing of the lateral moraine at about 2800 m to the lower end of the Alpeiner Kräulferner. This is best done at the top by the rock wall of the Summer Wall (clear traces of passage).

(3) At the orographically right edge of the Alpeiner Kräulferner, crampons (in case of bare conditions), harnesses, and rope are finally put on. In glacier roped teams we cross the glacier and curve widely to the right towards the rock ridge between Seespitzferner and Alpeiner Kräulferner. The glacier slope becomes steeper at the end and leads at about 2880 m to the rim crevasse between rock and ice. An old fixed rope (climbing rope), left by the route developers and quite visible, helps to find the correct place to pass through the rock barrier.

(4) At the rim crevasse, glacier roped teams must convert to climbing roped teams. The following rock section offers some climbing passages of grade 3 difficulty and extends over 2 rope lengths (50 m rope). The rock is sometimes brittle, often wet and especially the first meters from the rim crevasse are also sandy (these first meters can be the most difficult in terms of climbing). Route finding is easy and logical once the entry and the continuous old fixed rope have been discovered. Fixed points include a bolt (anchor) for the belay station after the first rope length and some normal pitons. Slings can be additionally attached as intermediate protection. (The unroped, unprotected passage of the rock ridge can only be recommended to very experienced climbers.) We then reach easy block terrain below the steep glacier slope that rises to the Seespitzferner above us. In the block terrain, we cross horizontally to the right (northwest) towards contour 3044 up to the distinctive terrain edge behind which we can comfortably sit on the Seespitzferner.

(5) In glacier roped teams and - in case of bare ice - with crampons, we ascend the Seespitzferner, which is initially so steep that we must also keep an eye on the danger of being dragged along. Over the flatter glacier from about 3140 m, we ascend directly to the notch in the ridge of the Eastern Seespitze. The ascent to the notch finally goes over a glacier slope about 30° steep, which is rockfall-prone in bare ice conditions. Also, the danger of being dragged along must be observed here in bare ice or hard firn conditions, and simultaneous walking in glacier roped teams is critically to be questioned. If securing, better in climbing roped teams or using fixed rope. Experienced high alpine climbers will ascend the flank unroped.

(6) From the notch - now again without crampons - directly over the southwest ridge and on mostly solid rock to the summit of the Eastern Seespitze. The climbing mostly moves in difficulty grades 2, 2+ and alternates with walking sections. With some sure-footedness and climbing experience, this ridge can also be climbed well unroped, unprotected, and on one's own responsibility.

(7) The descent proceeds in an easterly direction (ESE) over block terrain to the flat ice/firn ridge formed here by the upper end of the Alpeiner Kräulferner. Over this flat ridge and at the eastern end (right edge) of the ice field, now descend. It is best to keep in the ice or firn-covered area here, which is better to walk on (with crampons) than the scree terrain further right (east). Descending, we now head for the firn notch (contour 3259 m) on the ridge towards the southern Kräulscharte. Over the slope sloping here to the northwest, we continue descending, keeping as far right as possible (in the sense of descent), close to the adjacent rock and scree terrain. At a distinctive rock head, we cross a few meters into the slope and continue our descent exactly in the fall line. Here is the steepest section of our glacier descent with just under 35° inclination over about 50 vertical meters. Downward and towards the bergschrund, the glacier slope becomes somewhat less steep again. Over the bergschrund, further down and in a large left curve into the flat part of the Alpeiner Kräulferner. At about 2900 m, the circle closes from the ascent. From here, we follow exactly the route already known from the ascent back to the sandy floor of the Alpeiner Ferner and via path No. 131 back to the Franz-Senn-Hütte. In time for coffee and fresh apple strudel ...