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Alpine Tour Premium content Alpine Tour · Pennine Alps closed

Dufourspitze

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    Photo: Claudia Kurzböck, Outdooractive Premium
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difficult
Distance 26.6 km
18:00 h
2,500 m
2,550 m
4,632 m
2,480 m

The normal route to the Dufourspitze as a 3-day route.

The main peak of the Monte Rosa massif, the Dufourspitze, is the second highest mountain of the Alps and the highest peak in Switzerland. This dream destination demands a lot from the alpinist: the easiest route with nearly 1800 meters of ascent is also the longest. The much shorter access from Capanna Margherita is considerably more difficult, which is why many nevertheless choose the long way from the Monte Rosa Hut. The current normal route runs over the west ridge, the ascent via the Silbersattel is no longer possible as the fixed ropes were removed. Instead an abseil route was installed. The normal route is divided into two parts: 1500 vertical meters are covered on the gently sloping Monte Rosa Glacier, the remaining 300 vertical meters are climbed on the exposed west ridge. The key point of grade 3a was made easier with a fixed rope so that the climbing difficulty no longer exceeds grade II. You should still have enough reserves for the ridge! Most people are glad if after this

Localization

Parts of this content were machine translated from German.
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