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Alpine Tour
· Pennine Alps
Dufourspitze (4,634 m) - to the highest mountain peak of Switzerland
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The DufourspitzePhoto: Eduard Gruber, alpenvereinaktiv.com
Great high alpine route to the highest peak in Switzerland
Anyone leaving the Gornergrat railway at the Roterboden station will be initially speechless at the magnificent mountain backdrop. Even during the ascent, the Matterhorn continuously captured the passengers’ gaze, but here a picture of superlatives opens up. Large, powerful, and unapproachable, the Dufourspitze shows itself together with neighboring peaks, all over 4000 meters, which align in a circle like a tribute to the central peak. For many alpinists, the gaze respectfully wanders up the mighty Monte Rosa Glacier to the second-highest summit of the Alps and doubts may arise whether the climbing adventure will succeed. With good physical preparation and proper conditions, however, the ascent of this ice giant is definitely feasible and promises an experience one will never forget.
Author’s recommendation
The first part of the ascent on summit day takes place in darkness. A good headlamp is very advantageous here.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileSafety information
Here you encounter almost all the dangers that a high alpine route has to offer. Glacier breaks and crevasses must be mastered just as much as the very exposed and narrow rock ridge below the summit.
Tips and suggestions
Interesting details about the New Monte Rosa Hut
Roadbook
From the Monte Rosa Hut (2795m) on a path marked with poles and cairns, partially difficult to recognize, up to the Upper Plattje. Through blockwork and confusing rocky desert to the beginning of the glacier. Right at the start, a tricky and large crevasse system must be crossed. Then you reach a glacier hollow, which, on the right of a long rock ridge, leads steeper up to the high plateau of the Satteltole. Here the track leads to the saddle situated at 4300 m, where the approximately 40° steep snow ridge begins. Up this ridge to the airy rock ridge that leads directly to the summit.
Descent along the ascent route. The descent to the Silbersattel is not recommended, as a rockfall has torn away all fixed ropes and anchors.
Update from 13.07.2023
Since the creation of this route description, a few things have changed. The following addition has been received from Simon Bergmann of the Austrian Alpine Club:
The descent to the Silbersattel is easily possible. Even with a 40m rope, it is no problem at all. From the summit, follow the ridge eastward, past an abseil ring and further to a prominent T-shaped iron rod. From there, another 20m down to the next visible iron rod, and this repeats a few times (I think there are 5 stations). You can always safely climb down or abseil, each station is equipped with an iron rod and ring bolt. It gets steeper going down, so better to abseil than to climb down. The last 50m through a slabby and icy gully. There is a fixed rope laid there, but it was frozen and therefore not helpful. From the Silbersattel, either continue to the Nordend or directly descend over the glacier until you meet the ascent track (at about 3950m). The glacier was great to walk on but is threatened by seracs. A quick step is recommended to get quickly through the danger zone.
PS: The GPS track with descent over Silbersattel has been updated accordingly.
Monte Rosa Hütte
Public transport
See hut ascent New Monte Rosa HutDirections
See hut ascent New Monte Rosa HutParking
See hut ascent New Monte Rosa HutCoordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
Complete high alpine equipment
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions