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Beautiful 4000-meter peak in the Valais Alps - with glacier, firn, and ice sections.
moderate
Distance 9.2 km
6:22 h
1,079 m
657 m
4,229 m
3,397 m
From the hut "Rifugio Guide della Val d’Ayas" to Castor and then to the cable car station "Klein Matterhorn"
Difficulty
35°
moderate
Overall difficulty
moderate
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
4,229 m
Lowest point
3,397 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
Belay stations
with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts, pitons, trad gear
Protection
with bolts, sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Restaurant Matterhorn Glacier ParadiseSafety information
Exposed ridge in the summit area, previously a 55-degree ice climbing section (with rappel sling)Tips and suggestions
https://www.zermatt.ch/Bahnen-Pisten/Fahrplaene-Preise-Tickets-Bergbahnen
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rifugio_Guide_della_Val_d’Ayas
Roadbook
From the hut "Rifugio Guide della Val d’Ayas" the route leads northwards over a crevassed glacier. Castor is then climbed via its western glacier flank. Crevasses are repeatedly found here as well. The summit ridge is reached via a 25m long steep section of a 55-degree steep ice slope. At its end there is usually a safety sling or rappel sling attached. Upon reaching the firn-ice ridge, continue southwards for 50 vertical meters to the summit. The ridge is sometimes only 40 cm wide. The descent route is the same as the ascent route. After descending and reaching the glacier, continue at a good distance from the southern rock flank of Pollux, heading west over the glacier to the cable car station "Klein Matterhorn". Considerable danger of crevasses.
Rest stop
Nearby
Top Partner
Waypoint
Start point
End point
Low point
High point
Forecast
Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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Photo
Video
CastorGlacier palace
The highest natural glacier palace in the world
Schlüsselstelle im Aufstieg zum Pollux mit Ketten entschärft
Rifugio Guide della Val d´Ayas
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise Photopoint
Restaurant Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
Klein Matterhorn
Public transport
Arrival in Zermatt by train, latest from Täsch (car park there)
Zermatt cable cars
Directions
Valais, ZermattParking
Täsch car parkCoordinates
DD
45.920707, 7.767024
DMS
45°55'14.5"N 7°46'01.3"E
UTM
32T 404391 5085976
w3w
///forager.reporter.forklift
Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Book recommendations for this region:
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Equipment
Glacier equipment and safety gear for 25m ice climbing (55 degrees), rappel equipment recommended.Localization
Parts of this content were machine translated from German.
Difficulty
35°
moderate
Overall difficulty
moderate
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Distance
9.2 km
Duration
6:22 h
Ascent
1,079 m
Descent
657 m
Highest point
4,229 m
Lowest point
3,397 m
Weather at the starting point
Statistics
Maps and trails
Nothing selected - click and drag in the elevation profile to zoom
Distance
Duration
Ascent
Descent

User Questions