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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Monte Rosa

Castor

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Alpenverein Hohe Munde Verified partner 
  • Summit ridge partially only a 40 cm narrow ridge track.
    Summit ridge partially only a 40 cm narrow ridge track.
    Photo: Rene Dorer, Alpenverein Hohe Munde

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    Beautiful 4000-meter peak in the Valais Alps - with glacier, firn, and ice sections.
    moderate
    Distance 9.2 km
    6:22 h
    1,079 m
    657 m
    4,229 m
    3,397 m
    From the hut "Rifugio Guide della Val d’Ayas" to Castor and then to the cable car station "Klein Matterhorn"
    Difficulty
    35° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    4,229 m
    Lowest point
    3,397 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
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    May
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts, pitons, trad gear
    Protection
    with bolts, sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Restaurant Matterhorn Glacier Paradise

    Safety information

    Exposed ridge in the summit area, previously a 55-degree ice climbing section (with rappel sling)

    Tips and suggestions

    https://www.zermatt.ch/Bahnen-Pisten/Fahrplaene-Preise-Tickets-Bergbahnen

    https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rifugio_Guide_della_Val_d’Ayas

    Roadbook

    From the hut "Rifugio Guide della Val d’Ayas" the route leads northwards over a crevassed glacier. Castor is then climbed via its western glacier flank. Crevasses are repeatedly found here as well. The summit ridge is reached via a 25m long steep section of a 55-degree steep ice slope. At its end there is usually a safety sling or rappel sling attached. Upon reaching the firn-ice ridge, continue southwards for 50 vertical meters to the summit. The ridge is sometimes only 40 cm wide. The descent route is the same as the ascent route. After descending and reaching the glacier, continue at a good distance from the southern rock flank of Pollux, heading west over the glacier to the cable car station "Klein Matterhorn". Considerable danger of crevasses.
    Rest stop
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    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
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    Castor
    Glacier palace
    The highest natural glacier palace in the world
    Schlüsselstelle im Aufstieg zum Pollux mit Ketten entschärft
    Rifugio Guide della Val d´Ayas
    Matterhorn Glacier Paradise Photopoint
    Restaurant Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
    Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
    Klein Matterhorn

    Public transport

    Arrival in Zermatt by train, latest from Täsch (car park there)

    Zermatt cable cars

    Directions

    Valais, Zermatt

    Parking

    Täsch car park

    Coordinates

    DD
    45.920707, 7.767024
    DMS
    45°55'14.5"N 7°46'01.3"E
    UTM
    32T 404391 5085976
    w3w 
    ///forager.reporter.forklift
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Equipment

    Glacier equipment and safety gear for 25m ice climbing (55 degrees), rappel equipment recommended.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    35° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    9.2 km
    Duration
    6:22 h
    Ascent
    1,079 m
    Descent
    657 m
    Highest point
    4,229 m
    Lowest point
    3,397 m
    Ridge Linear route Ridge crossing

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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