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Alpine Climbing Premium content Alpine Climbing · Uri Alps

Winterstock (2,904 m) SE face "Mangolyto" VII– (eKN VII–)

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  • Overview image with entry arrow: left "Varinia", center: "Mangolyto", right "Schwoabawäg"
    Overview image with entry arrow: left "Varinia", center: "Mangolyto", right "Schwoabawäg"
    Photo: topoguide.de - in Kooperation mit den Alpenvereinen, topoguide.de
difficult
Distance 6.7 km
7:30 h
511 m
511 m
2,904 m
2,218 m

Contrary to the slabby "Goldmarie," in the "Mangolyto" one mostly climbs on structured granite, and short athletic passages are also not missing.

After 17 years we were allowed to climb the masterpiece "Mangolyto" once again and leave a detailed topo behind. It became clear again how perception changes. What used to be generally considered "super" protection because at least solid bolts were in place, is today classified by us only as "good" due to the spacing – especially on the slabs. However, in the lower part, many additional bolts were added. Further up, perhaps the battery of the drill gave out. Also, in terms of difficulty assessment, by today’s standards we would add some "plus" here and there. Only the brilliant climbing and rock quality have not changed. Here "Mr. Plaisir" once again had a good nose. However, in the upper part, I initially followed a more classic crack at two places until I realized there were no more bolts. The first ascensionists always moved left into the really compact wall section there. Class! Not only with this route did Jürg von Känel set a new direction and made a mark in climbing;

Localization

Parts of this content were machine translated from German.
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Publisher topoguide.de
Das Portal für Mehrseillängenrouten in den Alpen und in Korsika. In unseren Büchern und auf dieser Seite erhältst du Infos zu fast 1000 Routen aus erster Hand, von der Plaisirtour bis zum Alpinklassiker. Wir haben alle Routen selbst geklettert und die Beschreibungen so verfasst, dass auch Gebietsfremde sich perfekt auf jede Tour vorbereiten können. So weißt du schon im Vorfeld, was dich erwartet, und jeder Klettertag bleibt in bester Erinnerung.

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