Wildgall Southwest Ridge

From the sawmill in Rein in Taufers, take Trail No. 8 to the Kasseler Hut: Continue on Trail No. 4 toward Antholzer Scharte up to an elevation of just over 2,700 meters. At this point, at the latest, descend to the left into a valley floor and reach the Östlicher Rieserferner via moraines. Keeping to the left across the glacier, climb directly up to the saddle between Wildgall and Hochflachkofel, where the glacier reaches its highest point. At the upper end of the glacier, climb 20 Hm up slabs to the saddle at 3,000 m. From here (climbing shoes are recommended!), the SW ridge begins, featuring climbing difficulties up to grade V and several very exposed sections (see CAI Alpi Pusteresi by W. Beikircher and F. Cammelli). Stable weather is a must!
The rock on this ridge is generally better than, for example, on the NW and NE ridges, but it remains brittle and requires a great deal of high-alpine experience. As a general rule: the further you move away from the ridge, the more brittle the rock becomes. The first two major ridge spurs are best climbed on the left, i.e., on the west face. On a flatter section, you can also veer to the right.
From about one-third to just under half of the climbing route, you stay directly on the ridge. From here on, the difficulty increases, with several passages rated upper IV and one rated V-. The towers rise boldly and are exposed, but are climbable. The ridge is interrupted by a total of six notches—some of them small—which, due to the sharpness of the ridge, must sometimes be traversed in a straddle position. You also tackle the final ascent directly along the ridge before reaching the summit: there is no cross there, but on the Antholz side, just before the highest point, there is a summit logbook; on average, four rope teams have signed it each year.
The descent via the west flank also begins at the summit logbook (rappel hook). The “standard route” through the west gully (sections II and III-) should be avoided in midsummer due to the risk of rockfall. Rappelling is nevertheless very tricky due to the unstable terrain. At the end of the first rappel, traverse to the left as viewed from above. The second rappel is set up with an old piece of rope. Rappel points No. 3 and 4 are in place. Check all abseil points for safety! After the fourth abseil, traverse across the somewhat flatter, scree-covered terrain toward the SW ridge start, carefully following the easiest possible route. You’ll move a maximum of 100 meters away from the abseil line, trying—where possible—to lose elevation. Tread marks make it easier to find the route. As soon as the terrain becomes rockier again, two more abseils follow (in a direct line to the start of the abseil). We set up the seventh and final rappel ourselves using an old piece of rope. This brings us to the upper edge of the Östl. Rieserferner, about 50 meters east of the original standard route (gully).
From there, descend over boulders, gravel, or along the glacier to the valley floor until you reach the marked trail leading down from Hochgall at two glacial lakes. Take the Hartdegen Trail back to the Kasseler Hut and continue down into the valley to the starting point.