Wasserwandkopf, Eisbärtour

The route runs on the pillar (Wasserwandkopf) on the left of the ascent to Schöner Fleck. Initially keep left up to the 6th pitch. Plaisir climbing up to here. There is the possibility to abseil from here via the installed abseil slopes (2 half ropes of 60 m required). From here alpine character. Over inclined slabs upwards to the first snowfield. Pass/bypass this on the right side. Occasionally Köpfel.

After the vertical wall section (4 m, 1 bolt) at the funnel, first keep right, then left of the rock walls. Pass the second snowfield on the right side up to the exit.

Route:

1st pitch: From the 1st belay go past 4 intermediate protections (IPs) upwards to the 2nd belay (brass plate).

2nd pitch: On the ledge, go 2 m right and then follow the crack line upwards (3 IPs). At the end of this crack line turn left onto the ledge. After about 3 m there is an IP on the right side - after a further 6 m the next belay.

Variant 6+ [one pitch]

Traverse about 3 m left on the ledge, then place hands on the upward-running flake and do friction climbing to the belay (pleasure climbing route) and continue climbing to the belay on the ledge (brass plate).

3rd pitch: Continue following the ledge upwards. One IP on the right side. After a further 10 m (walking terrain) the next belay is located on the left beside the chimney running upwards.

4th pitch: From the belay go right to the foot of the chimney (IP). Climb up the chimney, after 2 m IP and after a further 3 m the next IP on the left chimney side. Then two more IPs on the left side. Afterwards traverse left to the belay.

5th pitch: From here continue left around the corner (compact slab) to the next piton. Then traverse right to the small larch. Above the larch climb up the bulge to the grass mats. Now keep left (IP below the rock fall) to the belay. Above, large slab with water grooves.

6th pitch: From the belay go straight up over the water grooves (3 IPs). At the end of the water grooves over a grass ledge. Then another IP. Climb over walking terrain to the next belay (route register).

Abseil possibility from here: (1x 55 m; 1x 50 m; 1x 45 m; 1x 55 m, attention double rope necessary) The abseil is directly over "Hubert's climbing garden" so extreme care to avoid rockfall is required!!

7th pitch: First follow a short ledge, then diagonally left upwards to the belay (1 IP).

8th pitch: Directly above the belay climb the smooth bulge, here are 3 IPs close together (4+/). After more IPs easier climbing to the next belay.

9th pitch: Now easy climbing straight up in a straight line (1 IP) to the next belay (chain). Two distinctive large rock holes on the left side serve as orientation. (They can already be seen from the hut).

10th pitch: From the belay climb right upwards the water grooves (3 pitons).

11th pitch: Left behind a block, then briefly along the right wall side, up to the gorge start and belay (large ring on the right side).

12th pitch: Climb diagonally left over washed-out rock grooves without IP to the belay on the slab below (approx. 2-3 m) of the horizontally running rock ledge (~70 m pitch length, belay at Köpfel possible in between).

13th pitch: Below a horizontally running rock ledge in ascent direction! The vertical passage has one piton. Then over grass-covered terrain slightly right to the belay.

14th pitch: Continue in easy terrain (walking terrain) straight up to the next belay on the right side at the wall. A rock bulge ahead of us has to be climbed at its easiest spot, slightly left. (Warning: Often snow in June)

15th pitch: Another belay on the right wall side. Now higher through the hollow the easiest way up, left the bulge of Rotpalfen, right over rough block terrain to the exit. Approx. 2200 m. Connecting path left the Wasserwandl, approx. 6 m high => toward Hochkalter, right over Schöner Fleck back to the start. (Warning: Often snow in June)