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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Garda Trentino

"Via Zanetti" - Due Laghi

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Alpenverein Spittal/Drau Verified partner 
  • TOPO Via Zanetti
    TOPO Via Zanetti
    Photo: Christian Resch, Alpenverein Spittal/Drau

Selected alternatives for you
    Short, slabby, and painstakingly established climbing route through the east face of Le Laste. The "Via Zanetti" is a nice and sufficiently secured half-day route, which is especially suitable for warming up climbs at Lake Garda!
    moderate
    Distance 2.6 km
    4:30 h
    414 m
    413 m
    654 m
    240 m

    The relatively newly developed area attracts more and more climbers to the idyllic Due Laghi!

    In painstaking clearing and cleaning work, the first ascenders have developed this slabby sector - the inviting east face. Nevertheless, some earthy passages can still be found in the structured slabs, but this does not really diminish the enjoyment!

    The start of the "Via Zanetti" is located directly left of the popular "Lo Spigolo Nascosto" and leads - in entertaining climbing - near the large corner along the slab wall upwards.

    This route offers a good alternative to the usually quite busy "Lo Spigolo Nascosto". If you like, you can climb through the first pitch of the aforementioned neighboring route and thus extend the pleasure a bit!

    Particularly noteworthy is the "terrain-friendly" protection by normal pitons and sand clocks, which still seems quite sufficient. The belay stations are also on normal pitons, sometimes combined with sand clocks, but always well and safely installed!

    Adventurous climbers will find a usable protection point every 4-8m in this sport route; mobile protective equipment is not necessary!

    The difficulties are very consistent, climbing on the structured slabs is a great pleasure. Even the supposed key passages (rated V- and almost a bit overrated) in the second and seventh pitch are only short and resolve nicely!

    The easy and short descent, as well as the charming view of the nearby lake, make this climbing experience particularly attractive.

    An interesting half-day adventure for all botanically interested pleasure climbers who are above rubble and loose material of all kinds and who want to "explore" in less well-known areas!

    Author’s recommendation

    This route is a good alternative to the easier slab routes on this wall and is (still) not so crowded. Plan the start either early in the morning or - with strong sunlight - only in the afternoon!
    Difficulty
    V- moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    654 m
    Lowest point
    240 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    160 m, 0:30 h
    Wall height
    260 m
    Climbing length
    220 m, 2:30 h
    Descent
    430 m, 0:50 h
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10
    First ascent
    Andre & Antonio Zanetti 2021

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Warning: Danger of falling rocks from parties climbing ahead!

    There is still a lot of loose debris and rubble in this route, so you should confidently lead and climb through the route as carefully as possible!

    Tips and suggestions

    The short pitches can be easily combined with a 60m rope. Due to the linearity of the route and the use of extendable quickdraws, there are no problems with rope friction on this route!

    There are still numerous worthwhile multi-pitch routes in this climbing area, so you can easily spend several days here!

    Right next to the "Via Zanetti" is the "Lo Spigolo Nascoto":

    https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/de/tour/via-lo-spigolo-nascosto-due-laghi/801659841/

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    From the power plant towards the village, then immediately after the first houses turn left uphill towards Ranzo. Follow the path upwards a bit, then take the junction below the cliffs to the right to the climbing garden. Attention: Do not take the first path to the right!

    Pass the path by the climbing garden and immediately to the start of Lo Spigolo Nascosto. Either climb the first pitch here (III, see topo) or take the path to the right higher up and past the rock face.

    Here traverse left to the start of Via Zanetti! The start of Via Zanetti is located just 10m left of Lo Spigolo Nascosto!

    Climb the route in 8 short pitches according to the attached TOPO!

    Descent:

    From the exit, go up the path; a path joins from the left. Follow this and climb to a rock crack. Spectacularly through the crack, then down again, later a slightly ascending and longer traverse.

    Now you reach a rock drop, which is secured with a steel cable and iron ladders. Then follow the path down to Massenza and through the village back to the well-known parking lot, directly at the power plant.

    Rest stop
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    Photo
    Video
    Parkplatz E-Werk Santa Massenza
    Centrale Santa Massenza - Hydrotour Dolomiti
    chiesa di Santa Massenza
    Casimiro Grappa e Vino
    Distilleria Francesco
    Maxentia – Azienda vitivinicola e Distilleria
    Giovanni Poli – Distillery

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    There is a bus connection from Trento to Arco, stop Due Laghi-Hotel Miralaghi.

    Bus line B 205

    Information at: https://www.trentinotrasporti.it/

    From the stop, about a ten-minute walk along Lago di Santa Massenza to the parking lot at the power plant.

    Directions

    From the North:

    On the A23 to the Trento Nord exit, then via the SS45 towards Riva del Garda. Past Vezzano to a small roundabout - between Lake Toblino and Lake Massenza. Here turn right onto the SP 245 to Santa Massenza. Along Lago di Santa Massenza to the parking lot by the unmistakable power plant, just before the village entrance.

    From the South:

    Coming from Arco, drive via Dro and Sarche on the SS45 to the above-mentioned roundabout junction. Then as described above!

    Parking

    Sufficient free parking spaces, but unattended, directly at the power plant.

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.065783, 10.980291
    DMS
    46°03'56.8"N 10°58'49.0"E
    UTM
    32T 653155 5103262
    w3w 
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    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    Standard alpine climbing gear with 50m single rope, 10 quickdraws - some of which should be extendable slings to reduce rope friction, 2 anchor slings, belay device & helmet!

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

    User Questions

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    Difficulty
    V- moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2.6 km
    Duration
    4:30 h
    Ascent
    414 m
    Descent
    413 m
    Highest point
    654 m
    Lowest point
    240 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Slab Descending on foot Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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