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Alpine Climbing Premium content Alpine Climbing · Canton of Glarus closed

Tante Ju (Brüggler)

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  • Beautiful water grooves at the end of the 2nd pitch (5b)
    Beautiful water grooves at the end of the 2nd pitch (5b)
    Photo: Outdooractive Climbing
closed
moderate
Distance 6.2 km
5:30 h
540 m
540 m
1,776 m
1,235 m
Great and varied climbing next to a large dihedral along an edge with cracks, slabs, hourglass placements, and water grooves, exit directly at the summit, well protected

The Brüggler, with a route density of almost 40 multi-pitch climbs and a climbing garden, is among the best climbing areas in Eastern Switzerland. At the Matt parking lot, you can camp or bivouac for a fee. There is a toilet, running water, a grill area, and a shelter, so you can easily spend a whole climbing weekend in the Schwändital. Tante Ju is probably the most beautiful line on the Brüggler. It leads over 5 pitches and 200 climbing meters directly to the summit. The crux is right at the start in the crack start (5c+), where climbing 5c between the bolts is mandatory. After the first pitch, the route runs only to the left of the large dihedral along the edge. The limestone, known for the Brüggler, is solid and rough. Protection is good, and the somewhat larger bolt gaps can be mitigated by additional protection (cams, slings).

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