The first two pitches are unproblematic. 3rd pitch: First 3 m to the right and climb the crack (V-) which goes into an open corner to the right. 4th pitch: Follow the 8-meter slab (I) to the left. 5th pitch: Climb the open corner vertically to the roof (4 bolts, 2 Camelots size 1, V+). Under the roof move right to the edge on good holds (2 bolts). Now climb vertically over the overhang at the easiest spot (VI, also A0, 3 bolts). Up to here continuously difficult. The following open corner is no problem (III+). 6th pitch: Take the slab from the left (1 bolt, IV-) up to the start of the open corner/small overhang (2 bolts). Climb the open corner and the following chimney (6 bolts, SU, V+). Belay and abseil station are about 8 m below the summit. (Note: Do not take the bolt on the summit platform, rope clamp risk)
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Rifugio Stella Alpina Spiz PiazRifugio Re Alberto I° - Gartlhütte
Tips and suggestions
You will find a detailed route report on the homepage of DAV Duisburg, www.dav-duisburg.de/Tourenberichte
The link: http://www.dav-duisburg.de/images/pdf/archiv%20tourenberichte/klettern%202014%20rosengarten%20lange%20version_150dpi.pdf
Roadbook
Ascent:
From the Gardeccia Hut take path no. 546 to the Vajolet Hut (50 min), there ascend the Gartl via path 542 to the Gartl Hut (50 min) and from there a 20-minute walk to the start, taking the visible path to the Stablerturm. Here climb the gully about 35 m up on the I-II ridge.
Descent:
The first abseil station is about 8 m below the summit. Climb down there (II).
Abseil three times (1*40 m, 1*55 m and 1*45 m) along the route, all stations with bolts and abseil rings. Advantage: You are not cannon fodder for the other parties abseiling over the Delago notch.
Geostop #9.2 - DWHG - The reef preserved in the rock
Rifugio Vajolet
Vajolet Towers (2616 m)
Einstieg Fehrmann (2.670 m)
Einstieg Delagokante (2.670 m)
Gartlhütte (Rif. Rè Alberto)
Rifugio Re Alberto I° - Gartlhütte
Public transport
The Vajolet valley has been closed to private car traffic for many years.The shuttle bus officially runs from the chairlift parking lot in Pera di Fassa to the Gardeccia Hut.
You can drive by car up to Muncion, which is the last access point.
Price: round trip 10,00 € (as of September 2014)
Directions
From the Brenner motorway (A22) take the exit Bozen Nord and then through the Eggental along the SS241 past Welschnofen up to the Karerpass. On the other side descend to Vigo di Fassa and in the same town turn left onto the SS48 towards Campitello di Fassa. In Pera di Fassa follow the road towards Muncion. Here ends the private drive.Parking
Parking spaces in Muncion are scarce!Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
NAA and CamelotsLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions