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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Dolomites

Stablerturm, Emmerich route

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DAV Sektion Duisburg Verified partner 
  • Route course Emmerich route
    Route course Emmerich route
    Photo: Oliver Knorre, DAV Sektion Duisburg

Selected alternatives for you
    A true Eisenstecken, although it has many iron parts. Great route on one of the Vajolet towers. The fifth pitch demands strength and endurance.
    moderate
    Distance 6.2 km
    6:30 h
    660 m
    660 m
    2,805 m
    1,949 m

    The first two pitches are unproblematic. 3rd pitch: First 3 m to the right and climb the crack (V-) which goes into an open corner to the right. 4th pitch: Follow the 8-meter slab (I) to the left. 5th pitch: Climb the open corner vertically to the roof (4 bolts, 2 Camelots size 1, V+). Under the roof move right to the edge on good holds (2 bolts). Now climb vertically over the overhang at the easiest spot (VI, also A0, 3 bolts). Up to here continuously difficult. The following open corner is no problem (III+). 6th pitch: Take the slab from the left (1 bolt, IV-) up to the start of the open corner/small overhang (2 bolts). Climb the open corner and the following chimney (6 bolts, SU, V+). Belay and abseil station are about 8 m below the summit. (Note: Do not take the bolt on the summit platform, rope clamp risk)

    Author’s recommendation

    Coffee and cake at the Gartl Hut. Check out the memorial corners, e.g. of Tita Piaz
    Difficulty
    VI- moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Stablerturm, 2,805 m
    Lowest point
    Gardeccia Hut, 1,949 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
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    May
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    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
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    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    711 m, 2:10 h
    Wall height
    145 m
    Climbing length
    154 m, 3:00 h
    Descent
    856 m, 2:00 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    pitons, trad gear
    Rope length
    2 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    8
    First ascent
    Otto Eisenstecken with E. Pircher and H. Egger 1943

    Track types

    Asphalt 26.94%Dirt road 4.67%Forested/wild trail 22.16%Path 38.69%Via ferrata 4.65%Unknown 2.87%
    Asphalt
    1.7 km
    Dirt road
    289 m
    Forested/wild trail
    1.4 km
    Path
    2.4 km
    Via ferrata
    287 m
    Unknown
    178 m
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Rifugio Stella Alpina Spiz Piaz
    Rifugio Re Alberto I° - Gartlhütte

    Tips and suggestions

    You will find a detailed route report on the homepage of DAV Duisburg, www.dav-duisburg.de/Tourenberichte

    The link: http://www.dav-duisburg.de/images/pdf/archiv%20tourenberichte/klettern%202014%20rosengarten%20lange%20version_150dpi.pdf

    Roadbook

    Ascent:

    From the Gardeccia Hut take path no. 546 to the Vajolet Hut (50 min), there ascend the Gartl via path 542 to the Gartl Hut (50 min) and from there a 20-minute walk to the start, taking the visible path to the Stablerturm. Here climb the gully about 35 m up on the I-II ridge.

    Descent:

    The first abseil station is about 8 m below the summit. Climb down there (II).

    Abseil three times (1*40 m, 1*55 m and 1*45 m) along the route, all stations with bolts and abseil rings. Advantage: You are not cannon fodder for the other parties abseiling over the Delago notch.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Rifugio Stella Alpina Spiz Piaz
    Geostop #9.2 - DWHG - The reef preserved in the rock
    Rifugio Vajolet
    Vajolet Towers (2616 m)
    Einstieg Fehrmann (2.670 m)
    Einstieg Delagokante (2.670 m)
    Gartlhütte (Rif. Rè Alberto)
    Rifugio Re Alberto I° - Gartlhütte

    Public transport

    The Vajolet valley has been closed to private car traffic for many years.

    The shuttle bus officially runs from the chairlift parking lot in Pera di Fassa to the Gardeccia Hut.

    You can drive by car up to Muncion, which is the last access point.

    Price: round trip 10,00 € (as of September 2014)

    Directions

    From the Brenner motorway (A22) take the exit Bozen Nord and then through the Eggental along the SS241 past Welschnofen up to the Karerpass. On the other side descend to Vigo di Fassa and in the same town turn left onto the SS48 towards Campitello di Fassa. In Pera di Fassa follow the road towards Muncion. Here ends the private drive.

    Parking

    Parking spaces in Muncion are scarce!

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.447427, 11.639650
    DMS
    46°26'50.7"N 11°38'22.7"E
    UTM
    32T 702737 5147147
    w3w 
    ///decorator.manifests.trinket
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Climbing in the Rosengarten and surroundings, The most beautiful routes in the Dolomites, by Mauro Bernardi, Athesia Verlag

    Author’s map recommendations

    Topographic map 1:25000, sheet no.: 06, Val di Fassa, Tabacco Verlag

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    NAA and Camelots

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Rating submitted
    Difficulty
    VI- moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    6.2 km
    Duration
    6:30 h
    Ascent
    660 m
    Descent
    660 m
    Highest point
    2,805 m
    Lowest point
    1,949 m
    Summit route Scenic Wall overhanging Abseil Descending on foot Out and back

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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