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recommended route
Alpine Climbing
· Val Bregaglia
Sperone Mark - Il lamone e le sue Placche 6a+ obl.
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Sperone Mark - The arête and its slabs 6a+ obl.Photo: Matthias Baudrexl - Kletterführer max.30min., Klettern
In immediate proximity to the campsite is the rock face of the "Sperone Mark." The huge flake in the second pitch is the highlight of the route. Afterwards, it goes over slab climbing to the exit.
CHARACTER
The first pitch offers a beautiful crack with good protection possibilities; shortly before the belay there is a somewhat longer stemming move to overcome. The first belay is already at the large flake, over which the second pitch leads. The following pitches go over slabs. If the fourth pitch with slab crawling is enough, you can shorten the route straight up.
Beauty: ★★★
Requirement: ★★★
Frequency: ★★★
Rock quality: ★★★★
Legend to the climbing guide max.30min.
Author’s recommendation
Coffee recommendation for afterwards: "Gatto Rosso" (at the valley entrance)
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Tips and suggestions
Legend to the climbing guide max.30min.Roadbook
ACCESS
From the camping "Ground Check"/parking lot past the restaurant "Gatto Rosso" and immediately to the right of the following houses across the meadow and later up through the forest to the wall. At the start of the route there is a large block over which you enter the route, immediately afterwards a crack leads to the right, with two tree roots for protection.
DESCENT
On foot from the exit, descend to the left down through the forest on a clear path.
The track for this route was not recorded on site but researched to the best of knowledge and belief. Please do not orient yourself solely based on the GPS track, but use the wording of the route description.
Directions
By car into Val di Mello
Parking
Parking lot Val di Mello, shortly before the camping Ground Check
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
This route comes from the climbing guide max.30min. by Matthias Baudrexl. Only a small selection of the routes from the guide is published on alpenvereinaktiv. You can find all routes and more information here:
Equipment
NAA
Express: 10
Stoppers: none
Camalots: 0.5+3
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions