Spaten South Ridge

From the Plauner Hut, take the unpaved trail toward Zillerplattenschare. In the area of a stream in the Hohenaukar, ascend off-trail toward Spaten or the northern Zillerscharte. Find your own best route where the terrain is least rocky or easiest to walk on (use the track as a suggestion; on the way there, you might want to cross into the cirque a bit earlier, as we did). Pass a prominent rock outcrop in the cirque on your right. After that, the terrain becomes increasingly scree-covered. We kept fairly far to the left along the rocks. Then it’s a somewhat arduous (but not unpleasant) climb down the fall line toward the base of the ridge with its prominent buttress. To the left of this, a steep, partly scree-covered gully begins, leading to the actual ridge start (approx. 1:30).
We bypassed a jammed boulder at the start on the left (2-3). In the narrow saddle, there are bolts with a rope sling. The nominally most difficult section begins immediately there: a 20-meter-high, nearly vertical wall (3+/4-), which, however, offers good handholds and footholds (adequately secured with new bolts and pitons). Once the terrain levels off, traverse left to a good belay station. From there, the route returns to the ridge, which is particularly exposed on the east side (mitigated by a few bolts). In the middle section, it gets a bit easier and there are occasional sections suitable for walking; 1–2 times, you’ll also veer over to the west side. Two bolts, some with carabiners, can be found along the way. Approaching the cross, the ridge becomes very exposed and jagged again, but remains at difficulty level 2–3; there’s a good belay station to the left of the summit cross (1:30 climb).
Return via the same route. The steep opening pitch is rappelled down from a belay station with a ring. The scree-filled gully with a jammed boulder can also be rappelled (1:15 from the summit back to the start).
Descent to the hut follows the same route as the ascent (1:15).