Southeast Edge, Große Fermeda (2873 m), Dolomites (Geisler Group)

Approach

From the Regensburger Hut, we first take path no. 13. After just over one kilometer, we keep left at a fork and bypass a ridge on path no. 13b. We then reach path no. 2b. At the junction, well-visible trail traces lead upwards over the grassy slope and scree cones towards the eastern large Fermeda Gorge. It is already advisable to thoroughly study the lower part of the climbing route. In particular, the black cave in the middle section should be memorized. At this point, you should also mentally anticipate the ascent along the grassy ridges up to the start of the route. Unfortunately, the trail traces sometimes disappear at the beginning of the ascent, and it is advisable initially to gain height across the grass, then enter the base of the gorge from the right.

Over large blocks, climb about 10-15 meters up into the gorge. A wooden stake on the left grassy wall marks the turnoff. At the same time, a well-visible grassy ledge lies on the right side. At the latest here, everything except the rope should be prepared. Now climb about 100 meters altitude over grass, keeping slightly left, and cross a grass channel. Yellow rock lies on the right, and when the grass ramp narrows and its end becomes visible, cross below a yellow wall to the right towards a small peak. This forms our start. According to Bernardi, there is an hourglass a little deeper in the gully. If you don't find it, the described variant to the small peak is recommended. About one and a half hours so far.

Climbing description

1. pitch (I) Ascend diagonally right from the hourglass (according to Bernardi) and follow the ridge upwards to the small peak. (20m)

2. pitch (III) The small peak at the end of Bernardi's description of the 1st pitch forms the start of our route description. Along the ridge to the corner. Ascend briefly and belay again at the small peak. (20m)

3. pitch (I) Steeply up grassy ledges slightly left to another small peak. No intermediate protection possible. (25m)

4. pitch (III) Right through a rocky crack and over grass to the edge. There, climb up a chimney-like gully to the belay at the small peak. (40m)

5. pitch (I) Again without intermediate protection, first ascending slightly left and then bending right in a curve to a small notch over grassy ledges. Belay at a fixed piton. (25m)

6. pitch (IV-) The vegetation gradually leaves us, and it climbs steeply first over a crack and then more inclined over grassy ledges to the belay in a black cave at a huge hourglass. (30m)

7. pitch (III) From the belay, first traverse left and then ascend diagonally left over a ramp. Belay at an hourglass with a sling. (35m)

8. pitch (III) From the belay, slightly right over slabs, then directly upwards to the belay at the small peak. (35m)

9. pitch (III) Straight up over slabs and just before the yellow pillar veer left. The hourglass is not on the ledge, but about 3 meters higher and marked by a sling. Belay either there or on the ledge with cams. (30m)

10. pitch (III) Left of the yellow pillar up a channel-like corner to the belay at a slightly left-lying yellow-red wall with an hourglass. (30m)

11. pitch (III) Now ascend slightly right. Pass two niches above and ascend at a third - initially not visible - with a fixed piton. Below two more niches, belay at an hourglass (sling). (45m)

12. pitch (III+) Bypass the niches on the right (piton) and over hourglass to a belay in a notch at the small peak. (20m)

13. pitch (IV) Descend about 2 meters down to the left and bypass the bulging rock. Ascend over slabs and directly overcome a small overhang (bolt hanger). Continue over a crack (bolt hanger) and finally to the edge. Belay at the small peak on a ledge before the steep edge. (45m)

14. pitch (IV) Now clearly go up the edge towards a small roof that can be bypassed on the right. Several fixed pitons provide security. Belay at a small peak. (25m)

15. pitch (III) Continue upwards on excellent rock on the edge with easy climbing. Belay at small peak and hourglass. (40m)

16. pitch (II) Again exposed on the edge on pleasantly solid rock and impressively steep for the difficulty. Belay as usual at small peak. (40m)

17. pitch (I) Follow the ridge to the end. There is an abseil ring. (20m)

After abseiling, traverse slightly right on the scree ledge to the start of the chimney. Belay at hourglass (sling). (10m)

18. pitch (IV-) Up the chimney. What else? On the left, the two abseil points can already be inspected for descent. Belay at the second abseil ring. (40m)

19. pitch (II) Up stepped terrain to the left. Traverse a slab (abseil point available) ascending left to the summit ridge. Belay at an hourglass (sling). (30m)

20. pitch (II) Now easy climbing to the summit. Belay optionally before the summit. (25-35m)

Descent

For the descent, one must decide either to downclimb the normal route (III) with three abseils or use the abseil piste set up on the northeast wall. The described descent is via the abseil piste. A 50m double rope is sufficient.

From the summit, first climb back the last two pitches to the notch (memorial plaque). From the last belay, one can abseil over the slab to just below the notch (15m). From the notch, use the abseil rings already used as belays on the ascent for the first two abseils (2x20m). The gully is now traversed northwards. Abseil 15m, 20m, and 25m from there. Then descend lightly over rocky terrain in the abseil direction to the next abseil point. The type of abseil pitons now changes. Be careful of self-protection from here. Abseil 25m and 20m to a large ledge. From there, continue into the gorge. Keep right. At a large rock block, the next abseil descends onto a snowfield or, depending on size, into its crevice (30-35m). For those who like, the abseil can be divided into 10m and 20-25m. For this, you get two rusty pitons and a damp cave under the rock block. Now follow the descent to the right out of the gorge and abseil again 15m. Then go left and for the last time abseil 25m down a small wall with brown lichens. The last meters on foot with easy climbing (I-II) bring you to the scree channel entered in the morning at the start of the gorge. Total descent time about two and a half to three hours. Then another three quarters of an hour to the Regensburger Hut.

The complete description can be found in the literature. This description serves as a supplement.