MTSZ
MTSZ térképportál
Turista Magazin
TuristaShop
Kéktúra
Gerecse50
A kéktúrázás napja
-
Topo of the route "Messner" on the Second SellaturmPhoto: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
Impressive route on the fantastic rock of the north face, difficult to protect
This is one of the most beautiful routes of the Sellatürme and the Sella group. The rock is excellent except for the last pitch: compact grey dolomite with holes and sand clocks. The climbing is technical, partly athletically demanding and consistently fun. The protection is sparse and in some pitches poor; also a few belays raise doubts. The VI grade must be climbed confidently and a solid lead climbing morale is indispensable. The line in the grey slabs in the central part is not easy to find and requires calm and a sense for the right route finding.
Author’s recommendation
A hammer and a small set of NH are highly recommended for this route.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Sella AlmSafety information
Length: 8 pitches / 260 m
Difficulty: VI
Protection quality / general difficulty: R3/II
Description of protection: sand clocks and normal pitons, hardly protectable with friends and nuts over long sections. Hammer and pitons are recommended.
Rock quality: excellent except for the last pitch
Retreat: retreat via the route possible in emergency.
Roadbook
APPROACH: From the Sellajoch, follow path no. 649 towards the Sellatürme. Shortly after the First Sellaturm, leave the path and follow the footsteps to the north face of the Second Sellaturm. Follow the north face to the start.
Start at the striking finger crack to the right of a yellow wall section with black water streaks.
1st pitch (30 m, VI-, 2 SU, 1 wedge): Climb the crack challenging (one wedge and one SU). At the end of the crack, traverse the small terrace to the right and climb the short dihedral up to the pillar head (SU), then traverse right to the belay at 2 NH.
2nd pitch (20 m, V, 1 SU, 1 NH): Briefly follow the crack upwards from the belay until it flattens (NH), then continue to the right, descend one meter and continue right. Up into a niche with SU and then strenuous further up over a bulge to the next niche with belay at 2 NH.
3rd pitch (25 m, VI-, 3 NH): Aim for the thin crack seen about 15 m to the right above. At the top of the crack 3 NH. Now, with a lot of feeling, find the best way diagonally up left to the left end of the large yellow niche. A few meters further left and up to a white niche with belay on one NH and one SU. Attention, this pitch is difficult to protect!
4th pitch (30 m, VI, 2 NH, 1 SU): From the belay, athletically climb up holes to the right to the SU. Then follow the thin cracks slightly leftwards upwards. After the belay at a thick sand clock, look a few meters right.
5th pitch (25 m, V+, 3 NH): Traverse right from the belay. One NH, then two more (about 15 m). Possibly make an intermediate belay here, otherwise more or less straight up over the compact slab (confusing), overcoming a small bulge and belay in a 2 m large yellow niche at 2 NH and SU.
6th pitch (40 m, V, 4 SU): Wonderful climbing on holes. From the belay up to the clearly visible SU and then continue leftwards upwards. Traverse the black stripes (may be wet) and continue on stepped terrain to the belay at 2 NH at the start of the dihedral.
7th pitch (40 m, IV): Climb the dihedral, first easy then somewhat more demanding. At the horizontal ledge, climb the crack a few meters up to a second ledge. Follow this 2 meters right to the belay at 2 NH.
8th pitch (50 m, IV, + 1 SU): Two meters left of the belay, climb the mossy dihedral (SU). Then ascend the gully on stepped terrain up to the ledge below the summit. Belay on friends. Then traverse about 30 m left up to the normal route.
DESCENT: Descend east along the well-trodden path and hike under the south face back to the Sellajoch.
Parkplatz am Sellajoch
2 Sellaturm
Directions
From the north, take the A22 motorway to the Klausen-Gröden exit and then continue on SS242d until Sankt Ulrich.
From the south, along SS12 to Waidbruck, then turn onto SS242 and continue to Sankt Ulrich.
From Sankt Ulrich, continue up to the Sella Joch and park at one of the parking lots near the pass.
Parking
At the parking lot at Hotel Mariaflora or shortly before. Enough parking spaces.
GPS coordinates of parking lot:
46.508214, 11.768016
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Climbing in the Rosengarten area, Mauro Bernardi, Athesia Verlag
Dolomiten Vertikal, Stefan Wagenhals et al., Loboeition
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Normal Alpine Equipment (NAA), hammer and NH.
The NAA (Normal Alpine Equipment) includes among others:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes
• helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes etc.
• sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building belays
• belay and rappel devices
• set of friends from 0.3 to 3 (sizes corresponding to Black Diamond Series C4 or X4)
• assortment of nuts
• extendable quickdraws (6)
• hammer and some pitons
• some kevlar slings
• first aid kit, mobile phone, bivy sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions