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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Zillertal Alps

Schrammacher NE ridge (4)

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Alpenverein Innsbruck Verified partner 
  • Geraer Hut towards Stubai Alps
    Geraer Hut towards Stubai Alps
    Photo: Arthur Lanthaler, DAV Sektion Landshut

Selected alternatives for you
    Great ascent on this impressive mountain. With Fussstein and Olperer in the background, this long ridge is a great full-day undertaking for experienced, enduring climbers.
    difficult
    Distance 9.7 km
    11:00 h
    1,533 m
    1,533 m
    3,411 m
    2,340 m
    The Schrammacher northeast ridge does not present too great difficulties but should not be underestimated due to its length. The descent over the south side with the counter-ascent to the Alpeiner Scharte is also demanding.

    Author’s recommendation

    When leaving the ridge, always go east, never to the north side. A few cairns can also be found on the way.
    Difficulty
    IV4a difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Schrammacher, 3,411 m
    Lowest point
    Geraer Hut, 2,340 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    600 m, 1:30 h
    Wall height
    450 m
    Climbing length
    1,300 m, 5:30 h
    Descent
    1,600 m, 4:00 h
    Belay stations
    trad gear
    Protection
    trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    7

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Geraer hut

    Safety information

    Exposed, partially brittle climbing up to grade 4. In fresh snow or wet conditions, the time required increases due to potentially greater securing effort. Handling mobile protection devices should be mastered.

    Roadbook

    From the Geraer Hut, follow the signposted path 502 towards Alpeinerscharte, which is reached after about 1 hour. Directly from the notch, the NE ridge to Schrammacher branches off to the south. First over some iron rungs up the first rise to the flat part of the ridge. Now always along this, staying directly on the ridge as long as possible. Then the ridge is left, and the rest of the ascent is made on the eastern flank of the Schrammacher. Crossing with some ascents, the summit is reached. The ridge is only re-entered directly before the summit cross. Along the way, cairns and old loops can be found repeatedly. Depending on conditions, 5-7 hours should be planned from the hut to the summit.

    The descent from the summit is via the easy south ridge. This leads to the beginning of a somewhat uninviting gully, which leads down to the Oberschrammacherkees. It is also possible to follow the ridge to the Oberschrammachscharte and only then cross back over the glacier. Caution with snow cover due to crevasses. After overcoming the bergschrund, the further descent leads northeast crossing scree to a small prominent ridge. The spot where the steep slope is descended is marked by a large cairn. From here again over scree to the path towards Alpeinerscharte and back to the hut.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Geraer hut
    Alpeinerscharte
    Schrammacher

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    By train to Steinach am Brenner, then by bus to Vals. www.oebb.at

    Directions

    On the Brenner highway A13 take the Matrei am Brenner exit and continue to St. Jodok (coming from Innsbruck). Coming from the south, take the exit at Brenner and continue from there to St. Jodok. From there continue to Vals until the end of the road.

    Parking

    Free parking near the Jausenstation Touristenrast.

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.043601, 11.628313
    DMS
    47°02'37.0"N 11°37'41.9"E
    UTM
    32T 699651 5213362
    w3w 
    ///mitigates.president.sunlight
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Adventure Alpine Climbing Tyrol, Otti Wiedmann

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    A set of wedge cams, Camalots #0.75 - #2, crampons for the Oberschrammacherkees

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV4a difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    9.7 km
    Duration
    11:00 h
    Ascent
    1,533 m
    Descent
    1,533 m
    Highest point
    3,411 m
    Lowest point
    2,340 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Wall Ridge Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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