Scheffauer North Face - Leuchs route

In the first part (approx. 150 m elevation gain) you climb a rocky ridge that leads towards the center of the wall. After a left bend, the ridge continues for about 50 m directly in the summit fall line. 50 meters below a distinctive black wall, you traverse a rocky slab to the right until you stand below a steep slope of grade 3. Here, the left variant is the better choice, as good holds and footholds are available and the rock is solid. After the steep slope, it goes left into the so-called Leuchs Gorge. A rock gorge about 5 meters wide at the bottom, widening upwards, leading towards the west ridge. In the gorge, we climb over some large wedged blocks, partly to the left and partly directly. At the most distinctive block approx. 100 m elevation gain, we have to master the last grade 3 spot. Then it goes left on walking terrain to a wide grassy ridge, which shortly leads to the west ridge. Follow this ridge a few meters easily to the summit.