Schartenspitze West Ridge

The lower section of the west ridge is incredibly steep and airy. The heavily smoothed, slanting and partly overhanging corner in the 2nd pitch is a minor “blemish” and is managed by almost all teams with aid climbing A0 or A1 (free 7-/7). Otherwise, mostly very nice climbing in grades 4 and 5. The route has been completely renovated. Variant after the traverse: “Wettertanz” (6 and A0). The west ridge combination with the direct start and the direct west ridge from the middle section (before the traverse of the west ridge) is among the finest that the "Schwabn" has to offer: 5 homogeneous pitches on great, mostly very rough (except the extremely polished crux pitch!) high mountain limestone – very steep and very airy – with bolt hangers, mostly well protected (except the 1st pitch, which can be well secured additionally with friends).