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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Dolomites

Sas Ciampac, Adang guide

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DAV Sektion Duisburg Verified partner 
  • Access route from Grödnerjoch
    Access route from Grödnerjoch
    Photo: Oliver Knorre, DAV Sektion Duisburg

Selected alternatives for you
    Beautiful enjoyable climbing of moderate difficulty in corners and slabs in the Dolomites. Good natural protection possibilities
    moderate
    Distance 6.9 km
    8:00 h
    650 m
    604 m
    2,672 m
    2,050 m
    Once the correct start is found, the route goes over the right pillar/wall part of the huge Sas Ciampac. Initially three pitches up before crossing clearly to the right. Often the climb continues through corners upwards. The key pitch is sparsely protected alpine style with two bolts. The route is rated in the climbing literature between V- and V+. One should master the fifth grade solidly to enjoy the route.

    Author’s recommendation

    Focus on the beautiful cross at Crespeinajoch
    Difficulty
    V5b moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Sas Ciampac, 2,672 m
    Lowest point
    Road at Grödnerjoch, 2,050 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    172 m, 1:20 h
    Wall height
    450 m
    Climbing length
    425 m, 5:00 h
    Descent
    650 m, 1:30 h
    Belay stations
    pitons, trad gear
    Protection
    pitons, trad gear
    Rope length
    2 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    6
    First ascent
    G. Adang 1903

    Track types

    Asphalt 0.08%Dirt road 60.26%Forested/wild trail 7.18%Path 22.39%Road 0.02%Unknown 10.04%
    Asphalt
    6 m
    Dirt road
    4.2 km
    Forested/wild trail
    498 m
    Path
    1.6 km
    Road
    2 m
    Unknown
    696 m
    Show elevation profile

    Tips and suggestions

     

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    Since 2023, parking is no longer possible at the first hairpin before the Grödnerjoch. The parking spaces have been barricaded with earthen embankments.

    The track was created afterwards!

    From Grödnerjoch take hiking trail 2 towards Jimmy Hut, after about 140 meters turn right onto hiking trail 8 towards Forceles shelter (east).

    Follow this until Heustabl appears, the forest clears, a path becomes visible. Here you now ascend left (north) to the southeast face of Sas Ciampac. You reach the start by crossing the visible grass band from right to left, 1 hour 20 minutes. Warning! If you are at the Forceles hut, you have gone too far.

    Climbing route from 2015:

    1st pitch: Slightly right of the overhanging rocks over grey rock to the belay with 2 bolts (35m, IV, several removable protection), picture 2

    2nd pitch: Slightly right up the visible corner (30m, 1 bolt, IV)

    3rd pitch: Further easy ascent on lighter terrain to the small belay (50m, III), picture 3

    4th pitch: On easy terrain another 20 meters towards the large slab to belay on a ledge with 2 bolts (20m, I), picture 4

    5th pitch: Right ascending traverse around the edge (45m, IV-, 1 bolt, 2 removable protection)

    6th pitch: The corner (22m) to the top and exit left to the belay (35m, IV)

    7th pitch: Traverse right to the piton (8-9m), then straight up the slab to belay on 2 bolts (30m, 1 bolt, removable protection)

    8th pitch: First right around a larger block, then up the slab to the belay (2 bolts) under the corner, the belay is left of the clearly visible corner (30m, IV-)

    9th pitch: left of the small roof up the corner (1 bolt) to the belay with 4 bolts (30m, IV, 1 bolt), picture 5

    10th pitch: Follow the corner to the right (50m, 1 bolt, IV)

    11th pitch: The significantly steeper corner to the top to belay on 1 bolt (35m, 2 bolts, removable protection, V-), picture 6

    12th pitch: First some meters up easy terrain, then left and the chimney on the right side the easiest way up, belay on block or small ledge (40m, 1 bolt, IV-)

    From the exit you take the trail signs left (west) continuing below a large block. Where it ends, climb right (NE) a ramp (II, 8m) up, then shortly down left the easiest way (II) up until you easily reach the summit via trail signs (150 m).

    Descent:

    You hike down west on path (2a) to Crespeinajoch. Here you meet the Dolomites high trail no. 2 that you follow towards Cirjoch (SW) initially downhill and at the fork to Val de Chedul uphill. From Cirjoch the path goes on Dolomites high trail no. 2 first south, then southwest downhill past Jimmy Hut back to the starting point, 1.5 hours.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Grödner Joch
    Grödner Joch (2120 m.ü.M.)
    Das Grödner Joch (2121m)
    Kostenpflichtiger Parkplatz Grödner Joch
    Der Crespeinasee
    Bergstation Seilbahn Plans-Frara
    Große Cirspitze (2.592m)
    Einstieg Cirspitze
    Der Gipfel der Großen Cirspitze
    Cirspitze Große

    Directions

    From Corvara:

    The SS243 towards Grödnerjoch.

    From Wolkenstein:

    First the SS242 towards Grödnerjoch and from Plan de Gralba take SS243 further to Grödnerjoch.

    Parking

    Parking Grödnerjoch, fee €8/day (status 09/2024)

    Free parking at the 1st hairpin from Grödnerjoch direction Corvara is no longer possible since 2023. Access to the parking spaces has been barricaded with an earth embankment.

     

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.550230, 11.809149
    DMS
    46°33'00.8"N 11°48'32.9"E
    UTM
    32T 715348 5159018
    w3w 
    ///outclassed.reinforcing.unhinge
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Climbing in Gröden, Dolomites, The most beautiful routes in the Dolomites, by Mauro Bernardi, Athesia Verlag, Volume 1, Topoguide, Climbing guide Alps V to VIII,

    Topoguide - Climbing guide Alps Volume I

    Author’s map recommendations

    Topographic map 1:25000, sheet no.:07, Alta Badia Arabba-Marmolada, Tabacco Verlag

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    NAA, Camalots up to size 2

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Rating submitted
    Difficulty
    V5b moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    6.9 km
    Duration
    8:00 h
    Ascent
    650 m
    Descent
    604 m
    Highest point
    2,672 m
    Lowest point
    2,050 m
    Round trip Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Wall Slab Descending on foot

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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