Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Tips and suggestions
Roadbook
Approach:
Since 2023, parking is no longer possible at the first hairpin before the Grödnerjoch. The parking spaces have been barricaded with earthen embankments.
The track was created afterwards!
From Grödnerjoch take hiking trail 2 towards Jimmy Hut, after about 140 meters turn right onto hiking trail 8 towards Forceles shelter (east).
Follow this until Heustabl appears, the forest clears, a path becomes visible. Here you now ascend left (north) to the southeast face of Sas Ciampac. You reach the start by crossing the visible grass band from right to left, 1 hour 20 minutes. Warning! If you are at the Forceles hut, you have gone too far.
Climbing route from 2015:
1st pitch: Slightly right of the overhanging rocks over grey rock to the belay with 2 bolts (35m, IV, several removable protection), picture 2
2nd pitch: Slightly right up the visible corner (30m, 1 bolt, IV)
3rd pitch: Further easy ascent on lighter terrain to the small belay (50m, III), picture 3
4th pitch: On easy terrain another 20 meters towards the large slab to belay on a ledge with 2 bolts (20m, I), picture 4
5th pitch: Right ascending traverse around the edge (45m, IV-, 1 bolt, 2 removable protection)
6th pitch: The corner (22m) to the top and exit left to the belay (35m, IV)
7th pitch: Traverse right to the piton (8-9m), then straight up the slab to belay on 2 bolts (30m, 1 bolt, removable protection)
8th pitch: First right around a larger block, then up the slab to the belay (2 bolts) under the corner, the belay is left of the clearly visible corner (30m, IV-)
9th pitch: left of the small roof up the corner (1 bolt) to the belay with 4 bolts (30m, IV, 1 bolt), picture 5
10th pitch: Follow the corner to the right (50m, 1 bolt, IV)
11th pitch: The significantly steeper corner to the top to belay on 1 bolt (35m, 2 bolts, removable protection, V-), picture 6
12th pitch: First some meters up easy terrain, then left and the chimney on the right side the easiest way up, belay on block or small ledge (40m, 1 bolt, IV-)
From the exit you take the trail signs left (west) continuing below a large block. Where it ends, climb right (NE) a ramp (II, 8m) up, then shortly down left the easiest way (II) up until you easily reach the summit via trail signs (150 m).
Descent:
You hike down west on path (2a) to Crespeinajoch. Here you meet the Dolomites high trail no. 2 that you follow towards Cirjoch (SW) initially downhill and at the fork to Val de Chedul uphill. From Cirjoch the path goes on Dolomites high trail no. 2 first south, then southwest downhill past Jimmy Hut back to the starting point, 1.5 hours.
Grödner Joch (2120 m.ü.M.)
Das Grödner Joch (2121m)
Kostenpflichtiger Parkplatz Grödner Joch
Der Crespeinasee
Bergstation Seilbahn Plans-Frara
Große Cirspitze (2.592m)
Einstieg Cirspitze
Der Gipfel der Großen Cirspitze
Cirspitze Große
Directions
From Corvara:
The SS243 towards Grödnerjoch.
From Wolkenstein:
First the SS242 towards Grödnerjoch and from Plan de Gralba take SS243 further to Grödnerjoch.
Parking
Parking Grödnerjoch, fee €8/day (status 09/2024)
Free parking at the 1st hairpin from Grödnerjoch direction Corvara is no longer possible since 2023. Access to the parking spaces has been barricaded with an earth embankment.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Climbing in Gröden, Dolomites, The most beautiful routes in the Dolomites, by Mauro Bernardi, Athesia Verlag, Volume 1, Topoguide, Climbing guide Alps V to VIII,
Author’s map recommendations
Topographic map 1:25000, sheet no.:07, Alta Badia Arabba-Marmolada, Tabacco Verlag
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
NAA, Camalots up to size 2Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions