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A kéktúrázás napja
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Topo of the "Ibrsche" and "Spiel Aus"Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
This varied route leads along cracks, corners, and edges through a previously untouched section of the wall. It impresses with excellent rock and a sustained and sufficiently protected 7b crux. It is easily possible, if not even better, to climb the first three pitches of the "Lokomotiv" and then traverse to the start of the "Ibrsche".
1. [30 m, VII+, 1 bolt]: Start on a 5 m long slab without intermediate protection, good morale required!
2. [25 m, VII, 3 bolts]: Crack which stays damp longer after rain.
3. [35 m, VIII+, 6 bolts]: Slightly overhanging crux. Adequately protectable with bolts and 1-2 friends.
4. [45 m, III]: Walking terrain to the belay at the foot of the long edge.
5. [45 m, VII, 6 bolts]: Follow the edge to its end. Long and demanding.
Author’s recommendation
Repeat climbers should not miss the excellent cakes at the Almschank Tengler. The alpine hut is located just above the parking lot and is open in the summer afternoons from 1:30 pm.
After a successful climbing tour, on the way home you really cannot pass by here without stopping for a drink. Over time it has become customary that climbing enthusiasts from near and far have drunk their well-deserved beer here, sharing their adventures and stories. This is also reflected in the pictures inside the hut, which show the history of climbing on the Scharte.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileSafety information
Length: 5 pitches / 180 m
Difficulty: 7b (6c A1)
Protection quality / overall difficulty: R3/II
Description of protection: The belay stations and pitches are protected with bolts at wide intervals; an additional set of friends and nuts is necessary.
Rock quality: Very good
Easy withdrawal possible via the route.
Tips and suggestions
At the exit of the south summit, the Oacher brothers have installed a schnapps box. It is considered good etiquette to bring a bottle and leave it in the box for future repeaters.
Online climbing guide: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks
Tourism Association Sarntal: https://www.sarntal.com/
Roadbook
Approach: From the parking lot behind the Riedlerhof, follow the trail marker No. 3 along a wide path past a pond to the Hofschank Tengler (20 min).
Passing to the left of Tengler, always follow the signs (3) a bit steeper over a forest path to the "Larchrastl", a junction where path 3 continues to the right (50 min). Here follow path 3B straight ahead.
Follow path 3B to a hill with a weather cross ("Outer Lord"), where it joins path 3A (1h). Here go uphill to the right continuing on path No. 3A.
First over a forest path to above the tree line, where the path changes into a stone path, continuously moderately steep uphill until the path gradually flattens and crosses the slope to the right. Here you already have a great view of the west face and can clearly see the summit cross.
On the way you soon reach a wayside shrine which opens on three sides and includes an overview of the climbing routes and topos. Later you reach a small spring with a trough, the "Brunnleit Brünnl" (1 h 40 min). This is the last water source; on the descent there is no water until here either!
From the wayside shrine descend about 100 m to a spot where a gully filled with scree and boulders reaches down to the path. Here, in a direct fall line to the summit cross, climb uphill over the gully across scree and large blocks up to the base of the wall. Follow the scree gully past the start of "Lokomotiv" to the start point.
Alternatively climb the first three pitches of "Lokomotiv" and then traverse about 50 m to the right to the start of "Ibrsche"
GPS coordinates start: 46.648850, 11.406999
Descent: From the summit cross on the flat summit plateau follow the large cairns left towards the south until a path forms leading down to the Schartl and the bivouac hut (10 min).
At Schartl head west on a rocky path down a steep gully with switchbacks following marker No. 3 until reaching a junction. Here turn right on path No. 3A which leads back to the spring (45 min). From here descend the same way as the ascent (paths 3A, 3B, 3). About 1h 40min to the parking lot.
Bildstock am Hildezachweg mit Kletterrouten und Topos
Brunnleit-Brünnl
Gipfelkreuz der Sarner Scharte
Biwak am Schartl der Sarner Scharte
Public transport
Take line 150 (Bolzano - Sarntal) to the "Straßmann" stop. From there follow hiking path No. 18 and then No. 3 to the "Riedl" parking lot (about 1.5h)
Directions
From Bolzano into Sarntal. Shortly before Sarnthein turn right at the gas station towards Steet/Riedelsberg. Follow the narrow road and then turn right to the Riedlerhof.Parking
Park above the Riedlerhof at the parking lot.
GPS coordinates parking lot: 46.64202, 11.3838
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Online climbing guide: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks
Author’s map recommendations
Equipment
Normal alpine equipment, 10 quickdraws
The NAE (Normal Alpine Equipment) includes, among others:
• 2 x 60 m half rope
• Helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.
• sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building belays
• belay and abseil device
• set of friends from 0.3 to 3 (sizes refer to Black Diamond C4 or X4 series)
• selection of nuts
• extendable quickdraws (6)
• hammer and some pitons
• some kevlar slings
• first aid kit, mobile phone, bivy sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions