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Alpine Climbing
· Bolzano and surroundings
Sarner Notch: via ... from Trento
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Topo Sarner Scharte of the routes "Tenglerin" and "Via ... da Trento"Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
Relatively easy but partly adventurous alpine route. The original route runs in the upper part mostly through a gully filled with rubble and eventually joins the routes of the Steinkötter pillar. We recommend taking the more rewarding exit via the “Tenglerin” (follow after the 6th pitch of the “Tenglerin”). The route runs on the west wall and especially at the beginning through a gully without view from the south, so you are long in the shade.
1. [50 m, III+, 2 bolts]: Start at the base of the pillar. Climb up the corner to a ledge with a tree, then traverse right over a difficult slippery section to a terrace. Continue on terrain with rubble walking to the base of the wall. Belay station at 2 bolts.
2. [50 m, IV, 1 bolt]: Enter left into a corner chimney. Beware: rubble and loose rock on the right wall! 1 bolt on the left side of the corner. Follow this to a ledge. From there more difficult and protect with friends in the crack. Pass 1 bolt without hanger. Soon belay on a terrace to the left. Beware loose stones!
3. [60 m, III+, 3 bolts]: Traverse right over terraces with rubble into an inclined chimney. This part is climbed as a ramp and has a somewhat difficult section at the beginning. The rest is easy climbing over stepped ramp. 60-m rope barely sufficient! Belay on a wide ledge at the base of the wall at 2 bolts. To the left, the start of 2 sport climbing routes (“Schworze Wond”, “Oachkatzlschwoaf”) can be seen.
4. [45 m, V-, 4 bolts]: Climb up right from the belay on a large flake to 1 bolt. Here starts a very nice system of flakes and steps. The start of the flake system is the key passage and can be well protected with additional friends. Bypass the overhang slightly to the left to reach the next bolt. Follow the flake system vertically then slightly right to the next bolt. Then climb rightwards up to a downward sloping ledge to the next bolt and then on walking terrain to the outer edge. Climb over the edge on the south side of the pillar and shortly after belay on a ledge at 2 bolts. This belay is also the 6th pitch of the “Tenglerin”. Here you can either ascend rightwards over a rubble gully directly to the summit cross or follow leftwards the ridge of the “Tenglerin” (4 pitches: 4b, 4a, 6a+, 5b).
5. [55 m, III+, 1 bolt]: Cross rubble arena and ascend left of a gully/corner over slabs (1 bolt). Then across rubble to the right to belay at 1 bolt.
6. [55 m]: Ascend right over rubble on walking terrain to belay at 1 bolt. The route now continues with the common exit pitches of this pillar. See routes “Schöne Aussicht + Steinkötter”.
Author’s recommendation
Repeat climbers should not miss the excellent cakes at the Tengler mountain inn. The hut is located just above the parking lot and is open in summer afternoons from 1:30 p.m.
After a successful climbing route on the way home you usually cannot pass without stopping here. Over time it has become a tradition that climbers from near and far have drunk their deserved beer here and shared their adventures and stories. This is also evident in the pictures inside the hut, which reflect the history of climbing on the notch.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Hofschenke TenglerSafety information
Length: 8 pitches / 360 m
Difficulty: V-
Protection quality / general difficulty: R3/II
Description of protection: Sporadically protected with bolts, especially at difficult sections. In some pitches it is necessary and possible to protect well with removable protection devices.
Rock quality: medium to good
Retreat: Retreat in case of emergency possible at any time via the route
Tips and suggestions
Report by the first ascentionists: https://digilander.libero.it/vallarsa/varie/sarner.htm
Online climbing guide: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks
Tourism association Sarntal: https://www.sarntal.com/
Roadbook
Approach: From the parking lot behind the Riedlerhof follow trail marker No. 3 along a wide path past a pond to the Tengler mountain inn (20 min).
Pass to the left of the Tengler always following the signs (3) a bit steeper on a forest path up to the “Larchrastl,” a junction where trail 3 continues to the right (50 min). Here follow trail 3B straight ahead.
Follow trail 3B up to a height with a weather cross (“Außerer Herr”) where it merges into trail 3A (1h). Here go uphill to the right following trail No. 3A.
First over a forest path above the tree line where the path becomes a stone path, steadily moderately steep uphill until the path gradually becomes flatter veering right and crosses the slope. Here you already have a great view of the west wall and can see the summit cross clearly.
On the path you will soon reach a wayside shrine that opens in three directions and contains an overview of the climbing routes and topos. Later you reach a small spring with a trough, the “Brunnleit Brünnl” (1 h 40 min). This is the last water source; there is no water even on the descent up to this point!
From the wayside shrine descend about 100 m to a point where a gully filled with rubble and blocks reaches down to the path. Here go directly uphill to the summit cross over the gully to the base of the wall. Follow this northwards along the wall crossing another gully filled with rubble. Aim for the distinctive outermost ridge to the left and pass the start of the “Tenglerin” to go along the ridge to the next pillar. The name of the route is on a metal plaque. (20 min)
GPS coordinates start: 46.64994,11.40594
Descent: From the summit cross on the flat summit plateau follow the large cairns leftwards towards the south until a path forms that leads down to the Schartl and the bivouac hut (10 min).
At the Schartl head west on a stony path descending a steep gully over switchbacks following trail No. 3 until you reach a junction. Here turn right onto trail No. 3A, which leads back to the spring (45 min). From here descend the same way as on the approach (trails 3A, 3B, 3). About 1 h 40 min to the parking lot.
Hofschenke Tengler
Ausserer Herrn
Bildstock am Hildezachweg mit Kletterrouten und Topos
Gipfelkreuz der Sarner Scharte
Public transport
By line 150 (Bolzano - Sarntal) to the stop "Straßmann". There follow hiking trail No. 18 and then No. 3 to parking lot "Riedl" (approx. 1.5h)
Directions
From Bolzano into the Sarntal. Just before Sarnthein at the gas station turn right towards Steet/Riedelsberg. Follow the narrow road and then turn right to the Riedlerhof.Parking
Park above the Riedlerhof in the parking lot.
GPS coordinates parking lot: 46.64202, 11.3838
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Online climbing guide: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks
Author’s map recommendations
Equipment
Normal Alpine Equipment (NAA)
The NAA (Normal Alpine Equipment) includes among others:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes
• helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.
• sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for belay station building
• belay and abseil device
• set of friends from 0.3 to 3 (sizes refer to Black Diamond C4 or X4 series)
• assortment of nuts
• extendable quickdraws (6)
• hammer and some pitons
• some Kevlar slings
• first aid kit, mobile phone, bivouac sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions