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Alpine Climbing
· Bolzano and surroundings
Sarner Notch: Holzer Ridge
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Topo Sarner Scharte of the route "Holzer-Kante"Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
This route follows the ridge that divides the Sarner Notch into the west and south face. Nowadays, the modern start is usually chosen, which begins directly on the hiking trail leading right from the Bildstöckl up to the summit. The climbing constantly follows or stays close to the ridge and alternates between fairly exposed sections and typical slab climbing. This route is ideal as an introduction to climbing on the Sarner Notch as it offers plenty of the characteristic notch climbing but is the easiest compared to the others. The route still features the handful of normal pitons placed by Heini Holzer alone – an impressive feat! Originally rated IV-, to align it with the other notch routes and to account for rock collapse, we have re-rated it to IV+. Hansjörg Zatelli writes in "On the way in Sarntal" that the route contained only three pitons. Nowadays, it suffers from an abundance of belays on trees and bolts, allowing repeaters to divide the route into varying pitch lengths. Originally, the route started at the height of the second pitch, which you reach via the ascent path to the "Pescoller-Verschneidung".
1. [55 m, IV, 1 bolt]: From the bolt directly at the path over rocky ground (1 bolt) slightly left to the slab. Here you can follow the difficult variant along the bolts through the slab (VI-, 3 bolts) or traverse left at the base of the slab to the ridge (IV) and follow the ridge (60 m rope barely sufficient). Soon after a station at bolt on a ledge on the ridge.
2. [35 m, IV, 2 bolts, 1 normal piton]: Follow ridge.
3. [45 m, IV-, 3 bolts]: Continue along ridge to large blocks that can be protected with friends and 2 bolts. Continue to station on larch.
4. [60 m, IV, 2 bolts]: Overcome short slab (bolt upper left) and follow broad prominent corner crack (bolt) between trees. Station at 2 bolts.
5. [50 m, II]: Follow broad grassy ridge without protection. Station at 2 bolts about 10 m after dead tree.
6. [40 m, III, 1 bolt]: Follow ridge (bolt), then blocks and slabs (easier on right). Station on terrace at 2 bolts and 2 normal pitons.
7. [50 m, IV, 2 bolts]: Follow ridge, ignore station with chain after 15 m, 1 bolt, block climbing. Attention: unstable blocks! At the base of the wall either station at 1 bolt in an obvious crux or 2 m left with friends in cracks.
8. [20 m, IV+, 2 bolts, 1 normal piton]: Short 20 m crux over broad crack on vertical short wall. Normal piton right outside the line. First bolt wobbles and is high up. Shortly after better bolt and then station with chain.
9. [40 m, IV, 3 bolts, 2 normal pitons]: Along ridge, overcoming traverse crack. Exposed but not difficult ridge. Last part loose. Station with chain and 3 bolts.
10. [50 m, III+]: Follow ridge over saddle towards grassy slab wall to the station of "Direkte Westwand" with chain (ignore!). Climb grassy slab wall vertically, slightly right. Last part together with "Engelskante". Here right over rock to station in front of Schnapskastl at 1 bolt.
Author’s recommendation
Repeat climbers should not miss the excellent cakes at the Tengler mountain inn. The alpine hut is located just above the parking lot and is open in the summer afternoons from 1:30 p.m.
On the way home after a successful climb, you really cannot pass without stopping here. Over time it has become customary that climbers from near and far have enjoyed their well-deserved beer here and told their adventures and stories. This can also be seen in the pictures inside the hut, which reflect the history of climbing on the notch.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Hofschenke TenglerSafety information
Length: 10 pitches / 350 m
Difficulty: IV+ (IV)
Protection quality / general difficulty: R2/II
Description of protection: Protected with normal pitons and bolts (most of which are self-made), sometimes mobile protection necessary.
Rock quality: Very good
Retreat in case of emergency possible at any time via the route
Tips and suggestions
At the exit of the south summit a Schnapskastl was set up by the Oacher brothers. It is good form to bring a bottle and leave it in the box for future repeaters.
Online climbing guide: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks
Sarntal Tourism Association: https://www.sarntal.com/
Roadbook
Approach: From the parking lot behind the Riedlerhof, follow trail marker No. 3 along a wide path past a pond to the Tengler mountain inn (20 min).
Pass to the left of the Tengler, always following the signs (3), a bit steeper along a forest path to the "Larchrastl", a junction where trail 3 continues to the right (50 min). Here follow trail 3B straight ahead.
Follow trail 3B up to a hill with a weather cross ("Außerer Herr"), where it merges into trail 3A (1h). Here go uphill to the right and continue on trail No. 3A.
First along a forest path up to above the tree line, where the path becomes a stone path, consistently moderately steep uphill, until the path gradually flattens and crosses the slope to the right. Here you already have a great view of the west face and can clearly see the summit cross.
Along the path you will soon reach a wayside shrine that opens on three sides and includes an overview of the climbing routes and topos. Later you reach a small spring with a trough, the "Brunnleit Brünnl" (1 h 40 min). This is the last water source; there is no water here even on the descent!
From the spring turn right until you see a single bolt next to the path. (5 min).
GPS coordinates of the start: 46.64694,11.406
Descent: From the summit cross on the flat summit plateau, follow the big cairns left towards the south until a path forms that leads down to the Schartl and the bivouac hut (10 min).
At the Schartl head west on a stony path down a steep gully in switchbacks following marker No. 3 until you reach a junction. Here turn right onto trail No. 3A, which leads back to the spring (45 min). From here descend the same way as the approach (trails 3A, 3B, 3). About 1 h 40 min to the parking lot.
Hofschenke Tengler
Ausserer Herrn
Bildstock am Hildezachweg mit Kletterrouten und Topos
Brunnleit-Brünnl
Gipfelkreuz der Sarner Scharte
Public transport
With line 150 (Bozen - Sarntal) to the "Straßmann" stop. From there follow hiking trail No. 18 and then No. 3 to the "Riedl" parking lot (approx. 1.5 h)
Directions
From Bozen into the Sarntal valley. Shortly before Sarnthein at the gas station turn right towards Steet/Riedelsberg. Follow the narrow road and then turn right towards Riedlerhof.Parking
Park above the Riedlerhof in the parking lot.
GPS coordinates parking lot: 46.64202, 11.3838
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
On the way in the Sarntal hiking and climbing guide by Hansjörg Zatelli - ISBN 13: 9788870145687
Online climbing guide: www.alpenverein.it/redrocks
Author’s map recommendations
Equipment
Normal Alpine Equipment (NAE)
Included in the NAE (Normal Alpine Equipment) are, among others:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes
• Helmet, harness, rucksack, climbing shoes, etc.
• Sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building belays
• Belay and abseil device
• Set of Friends from 0.3 to 3 (sizes refer to Black Diamond C4 or X4 series)
• Assortment of nuts
• Extendable quickdraws (6)
• Hammer and some pitons
• Some kevlar slings
• First aid kit, mobile phone, bivouac sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions