MTSZ
MTSZ térképportál
Turista Magazin
TuristaShop
Kéktúra
Gerecse50
A kéktúrázás napja
-
Wall painting Rocca and Torre CastelloPhoto: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
LENGTHS/METERS: 6 pitches / 210 m
DIFFICULTY: max. 5b+ / obligatory 5b
S2 / II
ROCK: good
ORIENTATION: east
EQUIPMENT/PROTECTION/RETREAT: Normal sport climbing equipment, possibly some small and medium friends / Bolted protection, since the distances are sometimes larger, friends can be taken for integration. / It is possible to abseil down the route at any time.
Normal sport climbing equipment
• 2 x 60 m half rope or single rope
• helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes etc.
• enough slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building belays
• belay and abseil device
• quickdraws (10), extendable quickdraws (4)
• some kevlar slings
• first aid kit, mobile phone, bivy sack, headlamp
Tips and suggestions
Digital topo from www.cuneoglimbing.it
https://www.cuneoclimbing.it/relazioni/multipitch/solo_bruna.pdf
In Locanda Mistral, in Ponte Maira, a successful ascent can be properly celebrated, either with a drink in the garden or with a dinner of local dishes.
https://www.locandamistral.com/
Roadbook
APPROACH: 70 min / From the parking lot below Grange Collett, ascend to it and follow the T14 hiking trail to Colle Greguri. On the other side (south side) of Colle Greguri, descend briefly to the start.
START: No plaque, identify the start a few meters to the right of Via King Line (plaque) by means of the wall painting.
GPS coordinates start: 44.512885, 6.922684
ROUTE DESCRIPTION LENGTHS:
1.[50 m, 5b+, 11 X, 2 P]: Beautiful crimp climbing on quartzite with some athletic passages. At the end of the crack do not go left to the belay on NH but right behind a small arrow to the belay on BH and chain.
2.[25 m, 5a, 1 X]: Do not go up the corner but the edge on the left wall of the corner. Then continue slightly over grassy spots to the belay a few meters right of the large corner.
3.[30 m, 5b, 5 X, 1 P]: From the belay climb right the crack corner, then briefly on walk terrain, continue on a slab and over a chimney to the pillar with belay on BH.
4.[40 m, 5a, 8 X, 3 P]: Climb leftwards up the slab, passing two abseil stations. Belay on BH and chain on a grassy ledge.
5.[45 m, 5b, 7 X, 4 P]: Climb left of the crack corner, pass right of an old belay and belay on a narrow ledge.
6.[20 m, 5a, 4 X]: Straight up to the summit plateau. Either right to the belay behind the edge or straight over the small roof (friend).
DESCENT: Abseil five times down the abseil route of Torre Castello, see topo. The first abseil is located in the distinctive corner a few meters north of the summit cross. Follow the ascent route back to the parking lot.
Colle Greguri
Rocca Castello
Directions
Follow Valle Maira to Chiappera (the last village). On a rough road and then an unpaved bumpy path continue to Grange Collet.Parking
Parking on the meadow or on the roadside before it, there are many options.
GPS coordinates parking: 44.522716, 6.907660
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
L'ESCURSIONISTA hiking maps: Valle Maira, 1:25,000
https://www.escursionistaeditore.com/maps/escursionista-editore/italia-valle-maira-hiking-map-1-25-000-esc00.html
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions