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Rocca Castello: King LinePhoto: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
The "King Line" will most likely become a classic of the Rocca. The low difficulty, excellent protection, and solid rock make the climb a pleasure.
1. [30 m, 5c, 7 bolts]: Start at the plaque. About 15 m straight up, then traverse slightly left and go straight up again to the belay. Enjoyable climbing on flakes and pockets.
2. [32 m, 5b, 6 bolts]: Continue on perfect rock. The second bolt is hidden to the left. In the second half, stepped terrain.
3. [28 m, 5b, 6 bolts]: Continue up and near the end of the pitch climb up the small tower along the bolts. Belay just left above.
4. [30 m, 5c, 6 bolts]: Short crux at the start then easier climbing to the next belay.
5. [40 m, 5a, 6 bolts]: Over a ridge and into the striking corner (widely spaced bolts) up to the belay at the top of the corner.
6. [35 m, 5c, 6 bolts]: Easy climbing to a nice slab, overcome this on holds. Belay left on the ridge.
7. [30 m, 6a, 7 bolts]: Very nice headwall to the summit with a short crux.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Locanda MistralSafety information
Length: 7 pitches / 205 m
Difficulty: 6a (5c A0)
Protection quality / General difficulty: S2/II
Description of protection: Sport climbing route, partly wide bolt spacing, the crux is well protected, some medium friends can be useful
Rock quality: very good
Easy retreat via the route
Tips and suggestions
Digital topo from www.cuneoglimbing.it
http://www.cuneoclimbing.it/relazioni/multipitch/kingline.pdf
At Locanda Mistral in Ponte Maira, a successful ascent can be properly celebrated, either with a drink in the garden or with a dinner of local dishes.
Roadbook
APPROACH: 70 min / Ascend from the parking below Grange Collett and follow the T14 hiking trail to Colle Greguri. On the other side (south side) of Colle Greguri, descend briefly to the start. Start at the metal plaque with the name of the route.
GPS coordinates of start: 44.512687, 6.922774
DESCENT: 90 min / Rappel down the route and return via the approach path to the parking lot.
Colle Greguri
Locanda Mistral
Rocca Castello
Rifugio Campo Base
Rocca Provenzale
Directions
Follow the Valle Maira to Chiappera (the last village). Continue on poor road and then unpaved bumpy path to Grange Collet.Parking
Parking in the meadow or before on the roadside, many options available.
GPS coordinates parking: 44.522716, 6.907660
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
L'ESCURSIONISTA hiking maps: Valle Maira, 1:25,000
Equipment
Normal sport climbing gear (NSA), 8 quickdrawsNSA (Normal Sport Climbing Gear) includes:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes or single rope
• Helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.
• sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building belays
• belay and abseil device
• quickdraws (10), extendable quickdraws (4)
• some Kevlar slings
• first aid kit, mobile phone, bivy sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions