MTSZ
MTSZ térképportál
Turista Magazin
TuristaShop
Kéktúra
Gerecse50
A kéktúrázás napja
recommended route
Alpine Climbing
· Mayrhofen-Hippach
Reichenspitze from the Zillerspitze
-
Photo: Christian Steger, Alpenverein Zillertal
This crossing is probably one of the challenging high routes in the Zillertal Alps. The information in the Zillertal Alps guide (Klier, 2013) is extremely sparse, partially incorrect, and the route length is described too short. Difficulty level 5 and handling of removable protection should be mastered for relaxed climbing. Ice axe, crampons, and helmet are also part of the equipment.
Then nothing stands in the way of an exciting and long climbing day.
Ridge length as the crow flies approx. 1.1 km, 300 m elevation gain, climbing time approx. 7 hours
From the Plauenerhütte towards the fork to Reichenspitze/Richterspitze, then straight up to the notch between Richterspitze and Zillerspitze. Up through easy block terrain (I-II) to the Zillerspitze. With few exceptions, from now on mostly climbing over all ridges and peaks toward Reichenspitze. Friends, nuts, and pitons should definitely be carried for comfort while climbing. Extremely varied, from loose to solid rock, very exposed, and in all facets rappelling, stemming, overhanging, and friction climbing for hours up to our intermediate goal, the Reichenspitze.
- following the motto, the summit belongs to us first in the valley!
The descent from the Reichenspitze leads us over scree terrain to the shoulder at about 3150 m where the subsequent glacier descent over the Kuchelmooskees is done roped. Depending on the time of year and glacier melting, the last part of the glacier descent is always critical due to rockfall from the steep ice above.
At about 2700 m the glacier ends and the comfortable descent to the Plauenerhütte begins.
Author’s recommendation
The route is objectively relatively safe with appropriate snow conditions. The glacier should not be bare at the lower part yet.
Better to plan as a 2-day route.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Plauener HütteSafety information
Snow conditions for ascent and descent must be considered. Later in the year, the daytime temperature should not be too hot because the crossing below the Reichenspitze on the descent towards Plauenerhütte is then an area prone to rockfalls.Roadbook
Gamsscharte (Unterstand)
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Bus route from Mayrhofen to the Zillergrund reservoirDirections
... Direction Mayrhofen in the Zillertal, just before Mayrhofen turn left and head toward Brandberg, after the tunnel turn left into the Zillergrund to Gasthof Bärenbad. Either on foot, by bus or by bike up to the reservoir.Parking
Gasthof Bärenbad, south portal of the tunnelCoordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness, glacier equipment
Slings, 5 pitons (profile, knife not too short), 1 set of friends, 6 quickdraws
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions