Punta Alpini, south edge

Approach:

The track was created afterwards.

From Bar Da Strobel take the hiking trail (there is only one) through the forest. At the end of the forest you reach hiking trail No. 423, which we follow to the right. After about 200 meters you pass the Lazarett and keep left (northbound) to the visible Punta Alpini. The entry is marked with a red triangle.

Climbing description:

1st pitch: Climb the inclined rock for about 30 meters upwards, belay at cemented bolt (30m, 5 bolts, V-)

2nd pitch: Climb the grass-covered rock, I (to the right is a larger boulder) upwards, then slightly left towards a tree. Belay above the dead tree (09/2024) at cemented bolt (28m, 2 bolts, some SU, I and IV-)

3rd pitch: A short section to the edge (2 bolts - belay also possible here) and then slightly right up along it (30m, 4 bolts, V-)

4th pitch: Continue up the wide edge and belay at the "bolt testing station" (27m, IV)

5th pitch: From the belay climb easily on the left side of the rock (I, some bolts) to the notch. The belay is located after the notch on the left wall side (55m, I-II). There is an exit option from the route to the right here.

6th pitch: Above the belay climb the grass-covered ramp (III), then through the corner (no bolts, status September 2024) and to the belay (2 bolts) in a notch (large head with broad red crossbar) up a crack (35m, 2 bolts, IV-)

7th pitch: About 10 meters up the rock, then slightly left up the ramp and over a gully to the summit (35m, III)

Descent:

Briefly follow the ridge almost horizontally northwards, then traverse right and abseil down a few meters to the first abseil point.

Variant 1:

Abseil or downclimb the ridge about 15 meters northwest (II)

Abseil about 25-28 meters north into the gully.

Abseil east as long as the rope allows. After 80 meters you will see a yellow-marked path leading left, follow the yellow markings, descend, downclimb or abseil. Some bolts are present for protection. Finally, follow the path leading down from Col dei Bois to the Lazarett and back to the tour start as in the approach.

Variant 2:

Abseil 30 meters down the right gully northeast to another abseil station (right from abseil direction), located on the left side (facing the valley). Then abseil east as far as the rope allows. After 80 meters you will see a yellow-marked path leading left, follow these yellow markings, descend, downclimb or abseil. Some bolts are present for protection. Finally, follow the path leading down from Col dei Bois to the Lazarett and back to the tour start as in the approach.