Puigmal (Cavall Bernat, Montserrat)

The unmistakable Cavall Bernat is one of the most impressive and symbolic rock formations in Montserrat. The summit of this needle, crowned by a reproduction of the Montserrat Virgin “La Moreneta,” is undoubtedly a must for climbers. There are many options to climb the Cavall Bernat. The “Puigmal” route follows the gully-crack on the northeast face and continues through the upper wall to the summit. This is surely the hardest free climbing route on the needle (7b+), although the crux moves (and pitches) can be overcome using aid with a mandatory difficulty of 6a/A1. The route offers about 250 meters of climbing split into 7 pitches, counting the approach pitch through the gully. The first five pitches go through the gully, which narrows and forms a cracked dihedral with few protections, requiring considerable self-protection, including a 7a (A1) overhanging crack. The last two pitches on the upper wall are theoretically the crux pitches, but the bolt ladder allows their aid