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Alpine Climbing Premium content Alpine Climbing · Garda Mountains

Primi Sogni (South face, Monte Colodri)

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  • Short traverse at the end of the 2nd rope length
    Short traverse at the end of the 2nd rope length
    Photo: Outdooractive Climbing
moderate
Distance 1.4 km
3:30 h
300 m
300 m
241 m
93 m
Initially over inclined slabs, in the second part steeper wall climbing over corners and a Piaz flake, bolted well up to the 3rd and 4th pitch, approach and descent via the Sentiero attrezzato del Colodri via ferrata

Difficulty: VI+ (mandatory VI), significantly easier in the lower part “Primi Sogni” has a total of five pitches over 190 climbing meters on the south face of Monte Colodri. The start is slightly to the right of the first large bend of the Sentiero attrezzato del Colodri via ferrata. The route can be divided into two parts. The first two pitches run over nice, inclined slabs with good bolted protection. The second part starts to the left of the large roof and goes over corners and a brittle Piaz flake in steeper climbing up to the exit at the hiking trail to Monte Colodri. Descent is via the via ferrata back to the parking lot at the campsite. The protection is good except for pitches 3 and 4. In pitch 3, the Piaz flake should definitely be additionally secured with small or medium friends, as the runout is otherwise very long and a fall could potentially lead to falling to the belay spot. Pitch 4 should be additionally secured with medium-sized nuts.

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