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recommended route
Alpine Climbing
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Porci con le Ali, San Paolo, Dolomites (Sarca Valley)
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From the start of the 1st pitchPhoto: Jan Friedrich, DAV Sektion Duisburg
Little frequented impressive route. Despite the short length of the route very worthwhile with two technically demanding sections.
With a nice ramp, a tough layback section, and an impressive ledge, the short route impresses. The start may be a bit unusual through a small wood, but the rest of the route more than compensates. The description is for the variant bypassing the 6b section at the start of the route.
Author’s recommendation
Can be well combined with one of the other neighboring equally short routes in case of uncertain weather conditions.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Many of the stacked small and large blocks are held from falling into the depths only by their mutual support. So do not pull on them senselessly.
Tips and suggestions
Wall picture and sketch can be found on Florian Kluckner's website.
Roadbook
Approach
Leave the path towards the hermitage (Eremo di San Paolo) immediately to the left at the road and climb diagonally upwards to the left. Bypass the bulging base of the wall on the left and climb to the upper end of the following recess. The name of the route is written on the rock.
Climbing Description
The easier variant of the route is described here. This bypasses the 6b section. From the 3rd pitch on, the routes are identical again.
1st & 2nd pitch (IV+) In Florian Kluckner's topo, the belay is made at the tree after the ramp-like corner. However, the 2nd pitch can also be attached immediately without problems. Through sparse trees, you climb in a line to the yellow wall (IV+). There is a belay at two bolt hangers. (40 m)
3rd pitch First climb a small wall from the belay. Then follow the ramp upwards to the right and over finely structured slabs to the belay. (30 m)
4th pitch After a slab, you reach a slabby corner. The crux can be managed with two powerful layback moves. Then it goes lightly over tiered terrain upwards and right to the belay. (25 m)
5th pitch We bypass a small bulge on the right and then stay left on the slab along the wall to the end. Now comes the second crux of the route to the left. We traverse on small but sharp holds on correspondingly small footholds to the left to the saving hold. The chimney-like terrain that follows then leads us to an exposed belay on a ledge.
6th pitch The exit pitch initially appears imposing from the ledge. However, the beautiful pockets for hands and feet soften the last pitch and unfortunately let the enjoyment end far too quickly.
Descent
From the exit, go a few meters uphill on a path to a well-visible hiking trail. Follow it to the right. After a few meters, a path branches off to the right at a well-visible cairn, sometimes leading steeply downward. Once at the bottom, follow the road to the right to the hermitage.
- The complete description can be found in the literature. This own description serves as a supplement.
- See topo in literature
Public transport
Not possible
Directions
In Cengia, cross the Sarche over the old Roman bridge and turn left. Two small parking bays are located in front of the hermitage (Eremo di San Paolo), where a path leads into the forest to the start.
Parking
Few free parking spaces.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
- Florian Kluckner: Arco Plaisir. 3rd edition. Villa di Teolo 2020
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The topo is published on the website www.klettern-sarcatal.com under Porci con le Ali.
Author’s map recommendations
Tobacco, Sarca Valley. Arco - Riva del Garda, Sheet 55, 1:25,000
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Standard alpine equipment (NAA)
There are numerous compilations for NAA. My suggestion: The DAV section Duisburg has posted on its homepage under the section "Training" a Equipment list for alpine climbing in the respective courses.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions