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Kéktúra
Gerecse50
A kéktúrázás napja
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Route and chamois bandPhoto: Oliver Knorre, DAV Sektion Duisburg
1st pitch: Up the left side of the ramp (25m, IV-, 1 bolt)
2nd pitch: Up the crack, grassy belay (30m, IV, 1 bolt)
3rd pitch: First the crack then the gully up (35m, IV-, 1 bolt)
4th pitch: Continue upward to under small roofs, then right to the belay at a yellow niche (35m, IV-, 1 bolt)
5th pitch: Up right of the yellow niche, overcome the small overhang (bolt), continue through the crack, sand on small ledge (40m, IV, 1 bolt)
6th pitch: Follow the crack further, pass to the left of yellow rock to another small ledge (40m, IV, 2 bolts)
7th pitch: Keep slightly right to small mini-roofs, over them to another crack always towards the then visible vertical slab. Do not climb the slab but pass right where the belay is located (35m, IV)
8-10 pitches: Left of the memorial plaque (at the cave), climb the gully that ends with some grass (30m, III+, 30m III, 25m II)
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Roadbook
Approach:
From the parking lot (road running parallel to the south face of Piz Ciavazes) at Piz Ciavazes, follow paths to the right lower part of the south face of Piz Ciavazes. The start is located at the base of the clearly visible ramp at the right end (east) of Piz Ciavazes.
Descent:
Follow the path along the Gamsband heading west (Sellajoch). Crawl through a short narrow rock tunnel (with wire rope) in the gorge. After the gorge, continue a little along the Gamsband. Where there is a short uphill section, downclimb the gully to the left and descend a rock wall (II-III) or rappel 20 m at this spot. Continue down clear tracks until about 20 m above a clearly visible scree field. Rappel 20 m here and follow paths diagonally left downhill back to the parking lot.
Parking
Free parking at the parking lot at Piz Ciavazes, parallel road to the south face of Piz Ciavazes between Sellajoch and Rifugio Monte Pallidi.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Climbing in Gröden, Dolomites, The most beautiful routes in the Dolomites, by Mauro Bernardi, Athesia Verlag
AVF Sella - Langkofel extreme, by Richard Goedeke, Bergverlag Rother
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
NAA and CamelotsLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions