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A kéktúrázás napja
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Route course and part of the descent over the GamsbandPhoto: Oliver Knorre, DAV Sektion Duisburg
1st pitch: From the start of the large gorge first go right over grass to the belay at a slab (25m, II)
2nd pitch: Climb the slab (IV) then significantly easier over grassy rock (III) to the belay at a yellow niche (20m, IV)
3rd pitch: First left, then up and again left to the left of two cracks, climb this. Finally slightly right over grass to the belay below the vertical wall, see photo (35m, IV-, 1 bolt)
4th pitch: From the belay go left past the vertical wall (25m, III+)
5th pitch: Climb the grassy crack to the clearly visible dihedral (photo 5) (Note: abseil station here, 2 bolts with chain), continue up the dihedral to the belay right of it on a sort of little summit (35m, V, 6 bolts).
6th pitch: First left (grass-covered), then to the dihedral (2 bolts), climb approximately 5-6 meters and then right to the belay (Note: Do not continue up the next dihedral!) (25m, VI-, 3 bolts)
7th pitch: First right (pitons), then slightly right over a slab to the belay under a yellow roof, see photo 6 (15m, IV+, 2 bolts, 2 pitons)
8th pitch: Traverse right under the roof and at the end of the roof (piton) climb up the crack and the following gully. The fixed piton is located about 5m above the exit (40m, IV+, 1 bolt, piton)
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRoadbook
Approach:
From the parking lot (road running parallel to the south face of Piz Ciavazes) at Piz Ciavazes, follow trails to the middle lower part of the south face of Piz Ciavazes. The start is located at the right side of the large gorge.
Descent:
Follow the path at Gamsband towards the west (Sellajoch). Crawl through a narrow rock tunnel with a wire rope for a short distance in the gorge. After the gorge, continue a little along the Gamsband. Where you go uphill for a short section, descend the gully to the left and down a rock wall (II-III) or rappel 20m at that point. Continue down the clear traces until you are about 20m above the clearly visible scree field. Rappel 20m here and follow paths diagonally down to the left back to the parking lot.
Alternative:
Rappel 4 times along the route (45m, 40m, 50m, 50m) then downclimb about 15m on the route (II), approximately 45 minutes
Parking
Free parking at the parking lot on the road below the south faces of Piz Ciavazes (road between Sellajoch and Rifugio Monte Pallidi).Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Climbing in Gröden, Dolomites, the most beautiful routes in the Dolomites, by Mauro Bernardi, Athesia Verlag
AVF Sella - Langkofel extreme, by Richard Goedeke, Bergverlag Rother
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
NAA and some CamelotsLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions