Piccolo Dain: Orizzonti Dolomitici
The Limaro Wall offers, besides "Orizzonti Dolomitici," several other beginner trad climbing routes. These routes are ideal to get started with multi-pitch climbing. The pitches are short, the protection very good, the rock excellent, and the difficulties beginner-friendly. Unfortunately, the popularity of the route is reflected in the wear of the rock, especially the first two pitches suffer from this. Nonetheless, a highly recommendable route.
1st pitch [23 m, 5b, 7 quickdraws]: Unpleasant and polished start (5b), follow the bolt to the left, hang one quickdraw on an iron nail, stay rather low for the last meters to the belay, belay on a bent iron bar with chain.
2nd pitch [32 m, 3a, 6 quickdraws]: Continue traversing further left, pass under a tree, a few meters after the Moonbears belay (marked in white) belay on an iron bar with bolt.
3rd pitch [30 m, 4a, 6 quickdraws]: Continue left and at the first bolt do not continue horizontally (Amazzonia) but climb upward over a small wall to the belay under the tree.
4th pitch [28 m, 4a, 5 quickdraws]: Pass left of the tree and follow the broad crack leaning right upwards to a small ledge belay.
5th pitch [28 m, 5b, 9 quickdraws]: Beautiful pitch on two vertical slabs with good holds, unfortunately somewhat polished, easier to climb on the left side of the bolts.
6th pitch [25 m, 4c, 8 quickdraws]: Climb a small chimney upwards and continue left to the belay.
7th pitch [30 m, 4a, 8 quickdraws]: Continue left to a short vertical slab, belay immediately after.
8th pitch [22 m, 4b, 5 quickdraws]: Follow a ramp to the right to the start of the large chimney.
9th pitch [25 m, 5a, 7 quickdraws]: Climb the chimney upwards, at a ledge go left to the belay. It is possible to continue climbing further (15 m) to the next belay without difficulty.
10th pitch [15 m, 5a, 4 quickdraws]: Climb back right into the chimney on the beautiful vertical wall, then leave it again immediately, and climb the left beautiful slab with holes to the exit.
Author’s recommendation
It is especially worthwhile to combine this route with "Le Strane Voglie di Amelie" in the upper part of the wall.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Hosteria ToblinoSafety information
Length: 10 pitches / 240 m
Difficulty: 5b
Quality of protection / General difficulty: S1/I
Description of protection: Sport climbing route with mostly short distances between bolts
Rock quality: very good
Retreating from the route is not recommended
Tips and suggestions
Here are similar routes summarized in a list: https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/s/ryWjx
Roadbook
APPROACH: 5 min | From the roundabout in front of Bar Ideal follow Via Caffaro (SS237) westwards. Before the bridge cross the street and walk a few meters back towards the starting point, then turn left onto the path. Follow this to the end at the gate of the ENEL headquarters. Entry at the gate.
Approximate GPS coordinates of the entry: 46.047517, 10.945817
DESCENT: 45 min | Follow the path starting at the exit uphill until it joins a hiking trail. Follow this downhill to Sarche.
Sarche di Lasino
Chiesa della Madonna del Carmine
Sarca-Brücke
Azienda Agricola Salvetta
Cantina Toblino S.c.a.
Hosteria Toblino
Via Attrezzata Rino Pisetta
Directions
Follow the A22 to the Treint exit, then follow the SS45bis to Cadine, Baselga Vezzano, and finally Sarche.Parking
In the large parking lot in front of the Orvea supermarket in the village center
GPS parking lot: 46.046137, 10.952380
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
High walls near Arco, Diego Filippi, Versante Sud
https://www.versantesud.it/de/prodotto/hohe-waende-bei-arco/
https://issuu.com/edizioni_versante_sud/docs/sarca3issuuted?e=0/2301623
Author’s map recommendations
Tabacco 1:25,000, No. 055. ARCO – VALLE DEL SARCA – VALLE DEI LAGHI
https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/cartografie/25000/055-valle-del-sarca-arco-riva-del-garda/
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Standard sport climbing equipment, 10 quickdraws
Standard sport climbing equipment (NSA) means:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes or single rope
• helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.
• sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building anchors
• belay and rappel device
• quickdraws (10), extending quickdraws (4)
• some kevlar slings
• first aid kit, mobile phone, bivy sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions