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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Garda Trentino

Piccolo Dain: Orizzonti Dolomitici

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AVS Referat Bergsport & HG Verified partner 
  • View from the 1st station of the "Orizzonti Dolomitici"
    View from the 1st station of the "Orizzonti Dolomitici"
    Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG

Selected alternatives for you
    Pleasurable trad climbing route, perfectly secured and with short approach and descent
    moderate
    Distance 1.9 km
    1:50 h
    296 m
    296 m
    520 m
    229 m

    The Limaro Wall offers, besides "Orizzonti Dolomitici," several other beginner trad climbing routes. These routes are ideal to get started with multi-pitch climbing. The pitches are short, the protection very good, the rock excellent, and the difficulties beginner-friendly. Unfortunately, the popularity of the route is reflected in the wear of the rock, especially the first two pitches suffer from this. Nonetheless, a highly recommendable route.

    1st pitch [23 m, 5b, 7 quickdraws]: Unpleasant and polished start (5b), follow the bolt to the left, hang one quickdraw on an iron nail, stay rather low for the last meters to the belay, belay on a bent iron bar with chain.

    2nd pitch [32 m, 3a, 6 quickdraws]: Continue traversing further left, pass under a tree, a few meters after the Moonbears belay (marked in white) belay on an iron bar with bolt.

    3rd pitch [30 m, 4a, 6 quickdraws]: Continue left and at the first bolt do not continue horizontally (Amazzonia) but climb upward over a small wall to the belay under the tree.

    4th pitch [28 m, 4a, 5 quickdraws]: Pass left of the tree and follow the broad crack leaning right upwards to a small ledge belay.

    5th pitch [28 m, 5b, 9 quickdraws]: Beautiful pitch on two vertical slabs with good holds, unfortunately somewhat polished, easier to climb on the left side of the bolts.

    6th pitch [25 m, 4c, 8 quickdraws]: Climb a small chimney upwards and continue left to the belay.

    7th pitch [30 m, 4a, 8 quickdraws]: Continue left to a short vertical slab, belay immediately after.

    8th pitch [22 m, 4b, 5 quickdraws]: Follow a ramp to the right to the start of the large chimney.

    9th pitch [25 m, 5a, 7 quickdraws]: Climb the chimney upwards, at a ledge go left to the belay. It is possible to continue climbing further (15 m) to the next belay without difficulty.

    10th pitch [15 m, 5a, 4 quickdraws]: Climb back right into the chimney on the beautiful vertical wall, then leave it again immediately, and climb the left beautiful slab with holes to the exit.

    Author’s recommendation

    It is especially worthwhile to combine this route with "Le Strane Voglie di Amelie" in the upper part of the wall.

    Difficulty
    5b moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Route exit, 520 m
    Lowest point
    Parking lot Sarche, 229 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    0 m 0:05 h
    Wall height
    200 m
    Climbing length
    240 m, 4:00 h
    Descent
    300 m, 0:45 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts
    Rope length
    2 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10
    First ascent
    A. Zanetti 2003

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Hosteria Toblino

    Safety information

    Length: 10 pitches / 240 m

    Difficulty: 5b

    Quality of protection / General difficulty: S1/I

    Description of protection: Sport climbing route with mostly short distances between bolts

    Rock quality: very good

    Retreating from the route is not recommended

    Tips and suggestions

    Here are similar routes summarized in a list: https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/s/ryWjx

    Roadbook

    APPROACH: 5 min | From the roundabout in front of Bar Ideal follow Via Caffaro (SS237) westwards. Before the bridge cross the street and walk a few meters back towards the starting point, then turn left onto the path. Follow this to the end at the gate of the ENEL headquarters. Entry at the gate.

    Approximate GPS coordinates of the entry: 46.047517, 10.945817

    DESCENT: 45 min | Follow the path starting at the exit uphill until it joins a hiking trail. Follow this downhill to Sarche.

    Rest stop
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    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
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    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Parkplatz
    Sarche di Lasino
    Chiesa della Madonna del Carmine
    Sarca-Brücke
    Azienda Agricola Salvetta
    Cantina Toblino S.c.a.
    Hosteria Toblino
    Via Attrezzata Rino Pisetta

    Directions

    Follow the A22 to the Treint exit, then follow the SS45bis to Cadine, Baselga Vezzano, and finally Sarche.

    Parking

    In the large parking lot in front of the Orvea supermarket in the village center

    GPS parking lot: 46.046137, 10.952380

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.047020, 10.952083
    DMS
    46°02'49.3"N 10°57'07.5"E
    UTM
    32T 651025 5101124
    w3w 
    ///skewers.quiver.wound
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Author’s map recommendations

    Tabacco 1:25,000, No. 055. ARCO – VALLE DEL SARCA – VALLE DEI LAGHI

    https://www.tabaccoeditrice.it/cartografie/25000/055-valle-del-sarca-arco-riva-del-garda/

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    Standard sport climbing equipment, 10 quickdraws

    Standard sport climbing equipment (NSA) means:

    • 2 x 60 m half ropes or single rope

    • helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.

    • sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building anchors

    • belay and rappel device

    • quickdraws (10), extending quickdraws (4)

    • some kevlar slings

    • first aid kit, mobile phone, bivy sack, headlamp

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    5b moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    1.9 km
    Duration
    1:50 h
    Ascent
    296 m
    Descent
    296 m
    Highest point
    520 m
    Lowest point
    229 m
    Wall Slab Descending on foot Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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