Piccolo Dain (971m) SW wall »Il sole di Davide e Michelangelo« VII (eKN VII)
A beautiful line and climb, combined with the shortest approach in the Sarche valley. But experience is required here.
We present the »Il sole« only because it is a prime example of the development style of this first ascender group. The rock quality clearly improves after the first rustic meters, unfortunately the protection does not.
Before starting the route, you should not only consider the beauty of the route, the difficulty, and the approach but also the type of protection to really decide if you want to climb this otherwise beautiful route. Drilled sandglass slings and coladosenrings should be questioned. Even for alpine experienced climbers, the holding force of the drilled sandglass slings, which weather quickly, as well as the often found »coladosenrings« at anchors, cannot be reliably assessed. A backup is often difficult. Anyone who wants/needs to retreat should never do so (!) without appropriate backup of the »coladosenrings«. There are more suitable routes for beginners and less experienced climbers (see Topoguide Volume I). Route category: Alpine classic Protection type: Anchors: bolts | bolts and pitons: pitons + bolts Protectability: moderate/good Rock type: limestone Rock quality: good Requirement: medium / hard Beauty: ★★★/★★★★ Information status: 2021 Read me! about
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