Ödsteinkante

The climbing only passes in the middle section over the pronounced NW edge; in the lower and upper parts the route runs left of the edge on the north face. The “Ödsteinkante” is one of those Gesäuse undertakings that you “must absolutely have done”, although the route including the long approach and complicated, very long descent via the “Kirchengrat” is anything but a “comfortable pleasure climb”! Sense of orientation, alpine experience, and absolute surefootedness are crucial for a smooth success – a retreat after the middle section is hardly possible or very difficult. All belay stations are equipped with one Bühler bolt each, with old piton material in between. In the key passage, several variations are possible, the most favorable (and easiest) runs via the “Dibona corner; see topo – must take!). The “Dibona start” (original start; up to 4+) is hardly used today; mainly the “Preuss start” is used. Altogether, a great, impressive adventure in a breathtaking rock landscape!