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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Upper Austrian Prealps

Nockplatten - Plattenschwein 5+

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Alpenverein Steyr Verified partner 
  • Ascent via the normal route to the Hoher Nock
    Ascent via the normal route to the Hoher Nock
    Photo: Rainer Nagenkögl, Alpenverein Steyr

Selected alternatives for you
    Finest slab climbing on solid, rough limestone along spectacular water grooves.
    moderate
    Distance 10.5 km
    8:30 h
    1,272 m
    1,272 m
    1,878 m
    621 m
    5 pitch pleasure climbing in the upper 5th grade on south-facing, water-eroded slab limestone.

    Author’s recommendation

    "Servus die Wadln" - If there is no distinctive foothold - climb using friction!
    Difficulty
    IV+ moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    1,878 m
    Lowest point
    621 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
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    Sep
    Oct
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    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    2:00 h
    Wall height
    150 m
    Climbing length
    180 m, 2:30 h
    Descent
    2:00 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    12

    Track types

    Dirt road 2.48%Forested/wild trail 67.45%Path 27.93%No marked trail 0.76%Traces of trail 1.07%Unknown 0.28%
    Dirt road
    261 m
    Forested/wild trail
    7.1 km
    Path
    2.9 km
    No marked trail
    80 m
    Traces of trail
    113 m
    Unknown
    30 m
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Very hot in summer due to exposure. Bring enough water; no springs along the ascent to refill drinking water supplies.

    Tips and suggestions

    http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/oberoesterreich/totes-gebirge/platteneuphorie

     

    Roadbook

    Approach: Ascent via the Budergrabensteig (trail no. 463) towards Hoher Nock. At the yellow signpost "Hoher Nock 1 h 30 min" turn left towards Koppenalm. The path follows a hunting trail below the Haglers. At the H 30 marker, keep left, continue until you reach the adjacent markers 23H 8/17 or H 17. From here, follow the cairns through dense dwarf pine (beware of wrong paths) up to the base of the wall.

    Start: In the left part of the slab. Hourglass to the right of the large corner. Attention, the route crosses to the right. Straight up is the route "Plattenschwein," which is secured with significantly fewer bolts.

    Descent:
    1. To the main summit of Hoher Nock: descent via the normal path about 3.5 h

    2. Descent to the base of the wall: I - II towards the main summit; where the dwarf pines open widely on the right and you can see directly towards Hoher Nock summit, descend over I - II terrain. On the left, view into a large cirque. Continue descending until the dwarf pine fields reappear, then keep right, traverse below the slightly lower slab walls back to the start.
    Return through the dwarf pine fields, as on the ascent. Beware of wrong paths!!! The dwarf pines have many dead ends.

    Rest stop
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    Photo
    Video
    Rettenbachquelle/Karstquelle
    Parkplatz Hinterer Rettenbach, Jagdhaus Rettenbach

    Directions

    A 9 Pyhrn Autobahn, exit Roßleithen near Windischgarsten. From the exit towards Windischgarsten, after the first houses turn left onto the Rading service road. Cross the railway tracks, follow the road, after the Salmer chapel keep right, next turn left – continue into the Hintere Rettenbachtal.

    Parking

    Skip the first parking possibility on the right. Continue to the car park in front of the Rettenbach hunting lodge (610 m).

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.754028, 14.312592
    DMS
    47°45'14.5"N 14°18'45.3"E
    UTM
    33T 448479 5289190
    w3w 
    ///ouch.suspect.mounts
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Genußklettern Österreich Mitte, Alpinverlag, Jentzsch-Rabl

    Author’s map recommendations

    Kompass Nationalpark Kalkalpen

    Equipment

    Kompass map Nationalpark Kalkalpen

    50 or 60 m single rope

    12 quickdraws

    Standard alpine climbing gear, helmet, slings and several carabiners for building belays, prusik, first aid kit.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Rating submitted
    Difficulty
    IV+ moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    10.5 km
    Duration
    8:30 h
    Ascent
    1,272 m
    Descent
    1,272 m
    Highest point
    1,878 m
    Lowest point
    621 m
    Slab Scenic Geological highlights Descending on foot Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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