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Wall painting of the Neunerspitze "Messner" routePhoto: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
Unique slab climbing on water grooves, a classic!
Fantastic friction climbing on excellent dolomite! This route goes straight through the impressive slab band of the Neunerspitze, along the striking dark water grooves.
The approach and descents are long but lead through the impressive high alpine landscape of the Fanesalm. Repeat climbers should have a good portion of lead climbing morale, as intermediate protection on the slab is scarce, and it is hardly possible to help oneself with mobile protection devices. A remarkable achievement by the Messner brothers. The route is rated max. V, however it can feel noticeably harder, especially if you are not used to slab climbing. Trust in the friction value of your climbing shoes is the key to success!
Those who are quick especially on approach and ascent can combine this route with one of the many others on this large slab.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Length: 7 pitches / 320 m
Difficulty: V
Protection quality / general difficulty: R4 / III
Description of protection: Alpine Dolomite route with sparse protection on the slab pitches. Most anchors are equipped with normal pitons and one bolt. Few intermediate protections (NH), with mobile protection devices good coverage can be achieved on the pitches above the slabs.
Rock quality: Excellent on the slab, good above.
Retreat: Retreat by the route is possible in emergency.
Tips and suggestions
Description on Bergsteigen.com: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/neunerplatte-messner-fuehre/
Description on Allgäu Plaisir: http://www.allgaeu-plaisir.de/neuner-platte-in-der-fanes-gruppe/
Roadbook
APPROACH: From the Pederühütte follow trail 7 to the Fanesalm and the Lavarella hut. Behind the Lavarella hut continue on trail 7 to the high plateau from where you can already see the Neunerplatte. Off-trail until below the slab. Climb the chimney up to the narrow ledge, and follow it left to the start at an anchor with two old bolts.
GPS coordinates start: 46.628427, 11.980349
1st pitch [48 m, V, 2 NH, 1 Tricam]: Slightly left from the anchor to the NH. Tricky start on friction. Then easier climbing continuing up along the water streak. Anchor at bolts and NH.
2nd pitch [30 m, V, 3 NH]: Straight up the water grooves to the next anchor.
3rd pitch [55 m, V, 4 NH]: Diagonal right up to a small grass bush with NH. Up to the next bush with NH and then traverse left again into the water grooves and climb them up to the old anchor with two NH and a white rope. Continue up to anchor at bolts and NH.
4th pitch [60 m, IV, 1 NH]: Up to the NH and then climb the wide grooves, which are protectable with friends. A few meters before the wide ledge continue left up (watch out for loose stones!). Anchor right at the base of a loose corner at a big SU in yellow rock.
5th pitch [47 m, IV]: Not up the conspicuous loose corner, but the ramp to the right of it. In the last meters climb around the loose wall to the left. Nice climbing on good cracks, protectable well with friends. Anchor at bolts and NH with pink rope. Further right there is also the old anchor.
6th pitch [50 m, IV, 1 NH]: Beautiful corner up. Anchor at 2 NH.
7th pitch [30 m, IV, 1 NH]: From anchor up to the small roof, go around it left and climb the corner up. Anchor at a bolt with sling just above the end of the wall.
DESCENT: From the summit descend eastwards via the Neunerspitzen via ferrata to trail 13. Follow this to the Lavarella hut and descend via the ascent route to the Pederühütte.
Neunerspitze
Parkplatz
Refuge & alpine Guesthouse Pederü
Directions
From the Gadertal to St. Vigil and further over Rautal to the end of the road at the Pederühütte.Parking
Large parking lot at the Pederühütte.
GPS coordinates parking lot: 46.639222, 12.041321
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
100 climbing routes in the Dolomites, by Anette Köhler and Norbert Memmel
Bergverlag Rother ISBN-13: 978-3-7633-3015-7
Author’s map recommendations
Tabacco map 31, Pragser Dolomites 1:25,000
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Standard alpine equipment (SAE)
The SAE (Standard Alpine Equipment) includes among others:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes
• helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes etc.
• sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) for building anchors
• belay and abseiling device
• set of friends from 0.3 to 3 (sizes refer to Black Diamond C4 or X4 series)
• assortment of nuts
• extendable quickdraws (6)
• hammer and some pitons
• some kevlar slings
• first aid kit, mobile phone, bivouac sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions