Monte del Forno WSW Ridge: Heidi Brunner-Führe (4 SL, 4c)

Approach:

From the Forno Hut, follow the Panorama Trail to P. 2711. From there, first ascend the foothills of the WSW ridge (cairns, white markings), then keep to the right through boulder fields to the first towers of the WSW ridge (40 min).

Start of the route:

At the base of the prominent pillar in front of the large gully. The route name is written in white.

Pitch:

1. 4b, 35 m: Keep slightly to the left to a ledge (BH). First through a crack dihedral (BH, Friends), then across a slab to the left (BH) to the belay (2 BH).
2. 4c, 35 m: Either to the left over cracks and slabs (4b, BH) or to the right past an old sling over cracks that can be well protected with Friends (5a). Then head left at first and climb up through cracks to the chain belay below the top of the pillar.
3. 4b, 30 m: Traverse horizontally along the wall, then a short friction section to the left (BH). Now back to the right through large, easy cracks (Friends, BH) to the belay at the start of a small ridge.
4. 4a, 30 m: Climb up the ridge (1 NH, slings) to a steep ascent with a short section where you’re pushed off course (BH). Belay station at a boulder.

Descent:

1. Descend on foot (recommended): Follow the wide WSW ridge to a prominent stone tower. From there, descend in a zigzag pattern across grassy ledges. Then return via the approach trail to the Panoramaweg and the Forno Hut—time for a cappuccino.
2. Alternatively, rappel twice from the summit (2 x 50 m) down the route ( belay 4 -> belay 2 -> base of the wall). Be careful of loose rock and cracks (rope tangles).